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Shim the wastegate, that'll give you a bit. Then do as these guys say- check to make sure you tightened all connectors.

The only way a shock would change ride height is if the spring perch welded to it was lower than stock.

Okay...Why doesn't your BPV release? That surge can't be good for the turbo.

There isn't a spec for snout diameter; It's not a wear point. I will tell you that I once had a pulley come loose and wobble till it screwed up the snout. Is this the damage you have? It caused one side of the keyway's wall to become angled, and no longer vertical, allowing the woodruff key to...

I have had the MAFT 1.0 on my car for at least 7 years, and never, ever had an issue with it. It gives you the ability to select almost any size injector, and adjust the AFR at different RPM@ WOT, and at different throttle positions. There are a few other abilities, but nothing that comes close...

Yup. R.K. isn't always noticeable at all rpms. In fact, it usually reveals itself at light throttle, between 2500-3500rpm, at least in my experience. Loose shim clearances sound to me like someone typing really fast on a manual typewriter under the valve covers.

No, but I have tried the Flex-a-Lite FLX-210 setup that has a built-in shround and an electric thermostat. Long story short, I went back to OEM fan with clutch, and a brand new OEM shroud, which only cost $76. You can't beat the OEM cooling fan.

I believe the fan relay is wired into the engine's fuse box. Look at the diagram on its cover.

Not sure what you mean by having the GM 3 bar. If that's a MAP sensor, it won't work with a MAFT. You need this: To set it up in blow thru mode, you have to run the IAC line to the intake(charge) piping before the MAF, then you can do it.

Knock yourself out: http://www.fullthrottletech.com/showthread.php?t=1102 And yes- that's all you need, assuming you have the wiring harness to connect the MAF to the MAFT. The MAF can be placed in suck thru, or blow thru arrangement. Blow-thru allows for external venting of a BOV.

Do you two not read? He said in post #4 that he corrected the problem via CPS adjustment, as suggested.

Yup. It's the CPS and nothing else. At least I would put real money on it.

Why doesn't your BOV release on either run??

sonofa... :)

Sure, that's the best option. But I wanted to ask- what HP do you need to hold for the foreseeable future? I ask, because i was told a good pressure plate plus a stock-style(smooth engagement) disc will handle better than 400+ hp. that's why I'm going to a Spec clutch, and ditch the chattery...

Cool. I just got those later model knock sensors in the mail today, with a full wiring harness for them. Guess we need to meet up soon. Still waiting for the 560cc injectors I ordered to show up for my bucket.

Well, if the friction coefficient is higher for the disc's material, it'll increase clamping capability, but that estimate is sometimes overinflated, and also refers to a new pressure plate being used, not an old one. I have a six puck sprung hub with a stock PP and it slips a bit. Going to be...

Damn Alan-sssshhh! I was going to go up there to see if there was a good front bumper assembly. I saw this car listed in car-part about a week ago. :)

Says video was uploaded by DrJonezz.