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Loud =/ quality

Incorrect, and it has nothing to do with the discussion. Back to the issue, welding to the cast iron turbine housing isn't going to be easy, but the thought has crossed my mind. Honestly I'd go to a recirculated DDP and never look back as the DDP is just a cop call...

Terrible pic but you get the idea: I used the ones with the shields and moving bulbs to switch beams. Keep in mind I don't have anything against chinese made stuff (hell, a LOT of stuff is made there) it's just these low quality kits that are everywhere.

:3d_frown:

And you won't end up in a ditch if you hit a pothole at speed...

Shouldn't make any difference at all unless you fixed or created boost leaks.

Doesn't HAVE to be phillips as there are a few good OEM ones out there. But overall the chinese kits suck. The bulbs are rebased so you can't just buy an HID bulb. The controller for the high/low is shit. The ballasts are garbage.

Never said I was speeding, just not slowing down for corners ;)

He'd need a wideband in that case, and an intercooler isn't going to affect AFR's

Hmmm, I read that they were graphite like the 7M's...

Yeah, I've hit some back roads pretty hard and hitting a bump mid turn you'll need the assist to keep it on track. The miata will hit you hard with a bump in a corner but as the car is so light and the way the chassis is setup it's not hard to control if it does go a bit screwy.

Yeah, sometimes it's like shoveling against the tide around here...

That explains everything :sarcasm: I kid I kid!!

That's for one ;) Yeah, they're like 80 bucks. Yes, I ran retrofit HIDs in them and while they're fine, the cheap ass HID's don't last.

A track is very smooth. Also of mention is that at higher speeds the PPS is all but shutting the power steering off.

Just getting a stock GTE headgasket is fine, the stock GE is composite IIRC and seems to go on the NA-T's that I've seen.

Oil feed to the turbo.

They WILL produce some crazy heat as they wear in, especially if abused.

I recommend getting them from here: http://www.rallylights.com/ The E-codes are the ones you want http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=354

Mostly it's heat cycling and downshifing so the gears mesh on both faces (acceleration and decelleration). Just sayin, if you didn't do it you'll make the gears very brittle.