What idle "sensor" is that? Are you making up parts now? ;).
I don't understand how you can be an active member of this forum and remain so uniformed about how things work. I'm not bashing you, I just don't follow how that's possible. Do you have TSRM? Do you want a simple or involved answer...
What Grim said. It could also be a sense wire problem. The regulator is internal and can be easily changed by removing the rear cover. Might as well polish the slip rings and replace the brushes while in there.
The IM240 test measures grams/mile. It's different from the ASM test used in Cali and many other states so I'd have to convert CO2 grams/mile into CO2% and at this point I'm at a loss as to how to do it. But since CO2 always goes down as the mixture gets richer (and your CO shows the mixture...
What whopwood said. Cali cars will set a code 71 if the ecu looks at the temp sensor and find's it cold. Do as he said and connect a resistor across the harness.
Eh, what is this "forum addict" crap? Good thing I'm off to work soon ;)
I gotta keep trying. You're the one who said if just one guy does it'll be worth it ;).
Speaking of which....
Joel, take it in small bites. For example, the FAQ on that site is enough. As with anything master the fundamentals first before moving on.
>High CO is usually caused by a bad/not hot enough cat.<
High CO is indicative of a rich mixture. Now it's true if the cat wasn't lit CO would be higher than normal but so would HC. And the cat in and of itself couldn't possibly be responsible for his numers. They're way to high.
>High HC...
I sympathize but there's a reason shops charge that and emissions techs need to be licensed. The stuff can be tricky to do and requires special gear and knowledge. My point was that if you'd had even the basics down you should've gone right to the O2 sensor after seeing the numbers. I hate to...
Wow...some serious misinformation in that post. jdub is the only one coming anywhere near close.
The O2 sensor is the first thing you should've checked. The plugs second. The engine is running rich. That's obvious from the CO, not the HC. The engine is clearly not operating in closed loop or...
Since I think it's fine you should do as I asked and send it to me ;).
I've already told you what to do. Several times. Test the TPS using either a your own manual or the online one. It's not difficult to do. Or search the forum for other TPS posts. If you don't own a manual and intend to keep...
Real men use their teeth ;)
I use an impact gun for removal and a torque wrench calibrated to a lever to install. If you can beg, borrow, or steal a torque multiplier it makes the job a piece of cake. It's the proper tool for a job like that. Ask any pals you know who work on trucks or heavy...
Lol, thanks jdub. Teaching kids isn't easy either since they already know everything (remember how you did? ;)). And sometimes old dogs learn hard but learn they must or they're doomed. The trick is to never stop. The irony of the engine mentioned above is that it probably needs heavy oil...
Good deal Joel. Some things are better left unknown anyway. If it starts, runs well, gets halfway decent mileage, and you need surgery to remove the grin after you drive it, that's all that matters ;)
Mike, there are lots of posts that cover this (one of which I just posted today) but no, if you don't have AC it won't be the cause of code 51.
It's easy to check your TPS and CTS, either on the car or off. Search todays posts for advice or read the manual. No manual? For shame. Look at the one...
I think mine is running perfectly as that's what I perceive unitl I put diagnostic gear on it. Then I usually find something is "wrong". That's one of the downsides of having the gear, it reveals things you'd never know. You either learn to live with them or chase them down. I suggest the former...
Well, a car over 100K isn't necessarily going to be worn enough to require such measures unless it was abused but if it was I agree...throw in some heavy weight. I sure wouldn't put any of that Lucas crap in though. Bad stuff in my opinion and in the opinions of lubrication people a lot smarter...
Why would you expect power gains from any HV ignition? I'm guessing you haven't done much secondary waveform analysis. Except in special cases aftermarket HV ignition is little more than snake oil.
Both comments are good advice and not just about cars ;). Frankly, I'm surprised one of Porter's threads would generate so many posts. Usually this kind of stuff gets ignored and for good reason. RTFM sums it up very well.
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