You're welcome. When I say 11 suppresses other codes I mean it won't allow them to be displayed even if they've been set in memory.
Btw some friendly advice: Make an effort with your writing or use a spell checker. I replied because I seem to recall we've talked in the past via PM but I still...
No, it doesn't mean the ECU is shot. Do as cuel said and check the grounds under the intake manifold. If you don't know how to do that with a meter temporarily run a new ground (a long jumper wire) directly from the battery negative to the ECU. If the code goes away start working your way...
Beats me. It's kinda hard to troubleshoot something like this over the Net other than to say I can't understand why you'd expect the engine to run right with faulty ECU power. Yet you're focused on the AFM and timing. Go figure...
Based on that description it still sounds like a bad AFM. As far as 11 being the only code since it suppresses all other codes that's no surprise. Until you fix it you won't be able to see any that may be hiding behind it.
Sorry, couldn't help myself. I used to work around machines full of chemicals that could kill, a few so potent their olfactory levels are higher than their lethal doses. Put another way by the time you smelled them you were already dead. While not that bad the simple truth is cars are full of...
Rather than bore you with the details I'll just say no, it shouldn't turn by hand. That said it's very doubtful the ISCV is at the root of your problem. Even if it was frozen it wouldn't cause the symptom you're seeing.
Sounds like corona discharge mixed with some outright arcing. As suggested start with the wires. A lean mixture, bad HT connection (or other form of high secondary resistance) and wide plug gaps can cause it too.
The COR isn't involved (it's job is a fuel pump interlock) but the main relay needs to be closed. For that to happen there must be power on IGSW. That begins at the 30 amp fusible link, goes through IGN 2 of the ignition switch, then through the 7.5 amp IGN fuse. In response to that input the...
You should first learn how the thing works. That way you wouldn't be confused. That said the FPU system is pretty much superfluous as long as rest pressure is maintained. I'd be looking at that before I did anything else. Or try this: next time after it's shut off before you start it hot again...
Most hoses have holes in them....it's what makes them hoses.
It's high temp silicone used by the modulator to sample exhaust pressure. Best to get it from the dealer.
That Supra Sport recommends PIAA bulbs alone would be enough to make me go elsewhere.
Hella is not the only firm to market ecodes. Mine are Cibies, a firm that's no weakling in the lighting field. The bulbs are Osram Euro Silverstars and not the inferior Sylvania stuff marketed in the US.
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