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http://tinyurl.com/279kxd It *is* a compression test, just a better method. In fact it's the only method used for testing compression on airplane engines. It'll also tell you where the leak is by listening at the exhaust, crankcase, or intake. You can buy a differential tester for around $70.

^ No. True leakdown testing refers to what is properly called a differential compression test. It's done by injecting compressed air and measuring the pressure drop across an orifice, in contrast to the direct compression test most people are familiar with. Fwiw compression testing can also be...

I have. Piece of cake. I reused the gear though because owning a 20 ton press has it merits. One place to buy the stuff: http://tinyurl.com/yq3tvp Or you can get it for cheap from the outfits mentioned in 3P's excellent write up. While you have it out cut a gasket for the CPS so you...

40%, compounded daily ;)

If the engine doesn't crank the tach can't possibly move or am I missing something? Charging or changing to a fresh battery will often "solve" a starter contact or bad wiring issue because the voltage doesn't drop as much under load. You can bet the symptom will come back though. If it does...

As pointed out I'm proof of that. Been running it for 20 years with zero problems and I'm not light footed. I have far better things to spend my money on than gas. Speaking of which, ejamacate thyself. Section 6 comes to mind: http://tinyurl.com/yx7c4o

It's understandable since technically the blower has four speeds and works differently in auto than manual. Your symptoms were also different. Anyway, let's say he replaces the resistor and it solves his problem. Does it mean Dan or myself was wrong? No, because the schematic doesn't lie. The...

You do recall correctly and I pointed that out to him via PM yesterday. The point I was trying to make here is the resistor pack should be ignored (even though the other poster urged him to replace it) but if he still insists on knowing it's OK that's the way to check it.

Components? The blower resistor is electrically one length of nichrome wire and if open there can't be continuity unless he measured it wrong. Measure across terminals 4 and 6 with it unplugged. Btw the blower in this car is dynamically braked...another example of thoughtful engineering on...

The root cause was expired tags. Nuff said.

Yes, try the other AFMs to see if at least one of the AFM codes go away. Clear the codes every time you try something new. If they remain measure. You can measure resistance of the AFM and resistance of the wires between the ECU and AFM connector with the AFM unplugged. You could also measure...

^ You're right except he shouldn't really smell anything unless it cranks. Then again some things hiss just before exploding ;) It sounds like the typical starter contact problem...

^ Keep telling yourself that as you slave away your entire life. A buck here and there over a lifetime isn't chump change, especially considering inflation and loss of investment potential. The vast majority of people (at least those who work at it) get rich slow, not quick. It's your money...

As pointed out the # 3 cylinder cover provides a seal for the plugs. If you don't use it some O rings can be installed. As for them degrading mine is original and in near perfect condition. Not that my valve covers have ever leaked much but when they do I fix them rather than taking stuff off.

Tis true. My 87 owner's manual says to use 87 and that's pretty much all I've used for 20 years with zero problems. I did use higher when I was modded way back when but since returning to near stock it's run 87. I believe 89+ model years changed that to 91 but not sure. My book also says...

The shocks would help....and the wiring....and the steering sensor...and the computer. The box between the seats is nothing more than a switch and not much of one at that.

Now that you got rid of the 11 you need to go back and see if all the AFMs set the same codes. If they do the odds are overwhelming it's a wiring problem. Sure you could rig new wiring but the easiest way is to measure stuff...

;)

^ You're right. Codes don't necessarily mean the sensor is bad, they just mean there's a problem in the circuit. Since 24 and 31 are both AFM related but independent sensors contained in one housing he either has a bad connection to the AFM or is missing the 5 volt reference (Vc). He can measure...

I don't quite understand what you're getting at. Are you questioning the gage? If so you can always tee in a mech gage and use both. Relocate the port with a hose if you have to or use another, say the one near the power steering pump. There's also nothing stopping you from checking the Prosport...