You can buy a vacuum filler around $80 or adapt a cooling system pressure tester to do it if you already own one, as everybody who works on cars should. Or you can be cheap and use a shop vac.
He means just what he said and he's right. In a life time of working on cars I've come across only a handful that require bleeding and on those the cooling system configuration makes the need obvious. This car isn't one of them. In 20 years of owning mine I've never had to bleed it. Not once...
I'm worried you could be an idiot but until there's proof I'm going to assume you're simply inexperienced. Replace the radiator cap and/or check the overflow plumbing. Forget about BHG for now.
Putting the 52 aside for a moment it's not going to idle right with a 51 because as long as you have a 51 the idle speed system will be disabled. Fix that and if everything else is OK the idle should start behaving.
I'm going by the stock gage too. It's been reworked to make it accurate. And when I said I worked to get "it" like that I meant the pressure, not the gage. I guess the point is for a stock system around 5 psi at hot idle is common and I use whatever oil it takes to keep highway pressure around...
Mine has for years run about 5 psi @ hot idle and about 30 psi on the highway. This with a very carefully calibrated gage. I'm glad too because I worked to get it like that.
My two cents:
Power steering is a hydraulic system and like all hydraulic systems has parts that are intolerant of contaminated fluid in the form of heat and particulate matter that is inevitably introduced from the outside to go along with stuff the system sheds on it's own. Contaminated...
The fuel pump in these cars doesn't come on with the key.
Btw you guys sure like doing things the hard way. The fuel pump's health can be checked without getting your hands dirty or even bending down. All it takes is a pressure gage, a 1 liter container, and a meter. Better yet is a scope...
Thanks Doward. Lol, around here I need all the help I can get. Not to mention the stock ECU remains in closed loop till around 3-4 psi under such conditions.
Cryo: I sure fooled that guy eh? Since when am I reasonable? ;)
Loki, it's well known EGR suppresses detonation. I could point you to any number of articles that so state including factory Toyota documentation. In fact suppressing det was what EGR was originally research for way back when. It's true EGR isn't active at WOT but not all high load situations...
Doesn't matter if warm or hot because all you're doing is setting baseline fuel pressure. What matters is the regulator port be at atmospheric pressure so as not to be influenced by manifold vacuum. That happens with the engine off or the hose disconnected when it's running.
Now it's true...
^ What he said.
You'll see the FPR explained in various ways but the bottom line is Toyota's stock Type A fuel injection system requires a constant 36 psi differential between injector inlet and outlet. That is, not coincidently, the midpoint of the 33 to 40 spec given in the TSRM when checking...
Of course he did. Didn't he twice say everything was put in properly? ;)
Kinda off topic but I just overhauled my original clutch master and slave yesterday along with doing an on-the-car fuel injector cleaning. The cylinders weren't leaking and in good condition so I used rebuild kits then...
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