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^ It's tune! It's codes! It's fuel! Now you know why they call it "shotgunning" ;)

Someone is corn-fused. JB 1 is in the driver's footwell. He must mean JB 2...

Start by checking where you get code 51 Grim. Either press the pedal in diag mode or bring idle up to appx 1700 and slowly drop it 100 rpm at a time while watching the tach and listening for fuel cut. If you don't see it or it takes more than a tiny amount of pedal to get 51 check the TPS...

Well, in fairness to professional mechanics they have to know about a lot of cars while I get to focus on only a few. The ECU has to somehow monitor the health of the knock circuit. In many engines the sensor(s) have an integral resistor connected between the sensor output and case for that...

What shaeff said, for what is probably the thousandth time. There is only one thing that can cause code 52: The ECU isn't sampling normal ignition events. That's usually caused by a faulty knock sensor or a bad (open or shorted) signal path and on very rare occasions noise in the circuit. And...

Call MSD for support. Tell them all of the above, especially the part about the seat and wipers not working. Maybe they can help you out. I know you'd be helping them out...

Aha, the old igniter not grounded trick bites again. You'll need to fix code 51 before expecting a controlled idle. Nothing more than being sure IDL is grounded in the TPS with the throttle closed. Without it the idle speed control system (and some other things) isn't enabled. See the write up...

I'm confused. Too many edits ;) It sounds as if you're on top of it. As I said you may want to pull the CPS and spin it manually with a plug out and grounded then go from there. Saves wear and tear on the battery and starter. Treat it as an ignition only problem and worry about everything...

The fuel pump should not run until the key is held to start. It will not continue to run once the key is released unless the engine fires. 51 is a valid code but won't keep the engine from starting. There's enough on this site about it to choke a goat. 14 will prevent the engine from...

4 and 5 are the actual switch. 1 and 2 is the light in the switch. The curly thing represents a lamp filament. As you can see illumination is independent of the switch ie; it doesn't go on and off with the fog lights. It's there only to find the switch in the dark. Course, you could make it do...

It switches the FPR port to atmosphere. If it switched the vacuum source to ATM that'd be a leak into the manifold. I'm sure that's what Grim meant to say though. Cut him some slack...he's sick ;)

^ Me too. If you haven't done the 12 volt mod also look at the FP relay. Check fuel pressure while doing a snap throttle test. Accept no more than a 2-3 psi drop with the regulator hose off and plugged. Check pump current if you can't find a fuel restriction. If it dips look at the pump relay.

Got certified on emissions just to learn but have never done it for a living. I also buy, repair, and re-sell older emission analyzers as a hobby. Twisted huh? ;) Pretty decent numbers. CO2 is an indicator of combustion efficiency and 15% is nothing to sneeze at. NOx is still high (lucky you...

As long as the engine is mechanically healthy, in fuel control, and with a good cat it would pass no matter where it came from or what aftermarket gadgets are on it. The visual inspection aside that includes California. After all this smog stuff isn't rocket science. That said it sounds like...

1) Look at that avatar too much and you'll go blind. 2) I help when I can although it's getting tougher to find posts worth replying to. 3) I am not cool. I am misanthropic, cynical, humorless, and ill tempered. No wait...maybe I am cool. 4) Most here would probably prefer I not be encouraged ;)

Exactly. Cutting spark would result in HC loading of the catalyst, a bad thing. It would also likely result in backfire when spark is re-enabled.

Lmao. Not much different from this place...

What did you swap it with? Briggs and Stratton? Cuisinart? Better info would help...

The advice on using regular fuel is spot on especially if N/A. So is the advice on first making sure the engine is working right ie, clean air filter and injectors, good ignition, in fuel control, etc. After that you can adjust your driving habits. Might want to adjust your living habits too or...