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Don't have a pic of one, but it's the canister you see on a lot of 1JZ front clips. It's smaller, rectangular shaped...easy to mount in the location I described. Has the same fittings for the vac lines as the round type. You could actually use almost any canister the same size/shape...just...

Any Top Tier gas is good ;) http://www.toptiergas.com/retailers.html The thread Slide linked to (Post #7) is full of good info too!

LOL...and Ian you're the guy I'm thinking about when I say "well thought out and highly modified oil system"...not to mention the rest of the car! ;)

I see you didn't read the thread links...doesn't surprise me. Dr Haas has both an Lambo Murcielago and Ferrari Enzo...care to guess what weight oil he uses? He's using a 0W-20 in the Lambo and 0W-30 in the Ferrari...the man knows far more about oil than you could ever hope to. Why does he use...

Yeah...saw that...great minds think alike ;) Your method of winterizing is very thorough...well done.

Since liquid does not compress, any liquid (including oil) will hydrolock a piston in the cylinder. This motor fills from the top of the valves...a motorcycle doesn't. If you fill the motor to the level you suggest (an obscene amount of oil), the level will be above the valves...if it seeps...

Do that and you risk getting oil in the cylinders. Familar with the term "hydrolock"? This is not a good idea :3d_frown:

Doesn't have anything to do with pump flow (unless it cavitates). The charcoal canister is designed to keep the gas tank at positive pressure (2 psi iirc) to help reduce fuel pump cavitation, especially at low tank levels. A better solution vs screwing with the basic design of the tank and...

Of course that also disables the postive pressure design (to the fuel pump) of the gas tank.

Depends on where you live...the supply is definitely getting sporadic. LOL...I can see that ;) Nope, GC is still a Group IV PAO base stock oil. The other Castrol oils you see on the shelves are all Group III and have been for some time.

Yeah...and an accumulator with -10 lines ;) In all fairness, Castrol RS is an excellent oil...it's actually very similar to GC in formulation (the 10W-60 is too thick though). I want Matce to tell me why he thinks it's better than the rest. Along the lines of this thread...

Care to back that up? How about a data sheet on the oil? What base stock is used in the oil? Have you had analysis done on the oil over time showing the wear metals and how the oil holds up? For most engines, the motor has to be built to handle an oil that thick...extensive modifications...

Especially for us old guys ;) What was your name again....lol

CPS shaft O-ring ;)

Pretty sure Jake means after he breaks the motor in ;)

Read post #11: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38768 What Mobil 1 do you have? And what is the weight/grade?

RL 75W-90NS will work in a R154...it does not contain the friction modifier. MT90 is a bit better IMO...it's formulated for a tranny.

I would use hose that's rated a little more than 50 psi...your oil pump can easily exceed that. Hose in the 200-300 psi range would give you a safety margin...that's why Toyota used metal and reinforced hose to the stock cooler. The last thing you need is to pop a hose and lose your oil...not...

^^^ Yep! I would have the manifold ceramic coated 1st before wrapping it. Same for the downpipe.

In AZ you want a Duralast Gold from AutoZone. It has a 3 year full replacement warranty...since a battery only lasts 2-3 years in the AZ heat (where you and I live), you'll get a free one next round. Already got one replaced for free ;) Get your alternator checked.