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I wouldn't drain it either ;) Keep running it unless you get shifting problems. The biggest difference between MTL and MT90 is the MTL is a bit thinner as you alluded to. It's a popular choice (according to Red Line) for BMW, Acura and Honda trannys...MT90 is a better formula for Toyota...

Jay - Use Red Line 75W-90 for the rear end (NOT 75W-90NS)...the former already has the friction modifiers needed for proper LSD operation in the formula. For the R-154, MT90 is a better choice ;)

Jay - Summit has Red Line 5W-30 for $8.75 a quart ;)

Mike - I think you may have mis-read the spec sheet. RP 5W-30 is a small bit *thinner* than RP 10W-30 (10.6 cst vs 11.0 cst)...not a significant amount though. But you are correct about a lot of other oils...I have seen a 5W-30 that is thicker at ops temp than a 10W-30 of the same brand/series...

Thanks Jag...I get so many PM's on this subject, it was about time I got around to making it easier on myself ;) That's correct...no sealant on the NA stud.

A bit more info ;)

Red Line 75W-90 does not require friction modifier additive...it is already in the formula. If you use Red Line 75W-90NS, you will need to buy the additive.

I get a lot of questions on this one ;) This eliminates the stock filter head on the 7M-GTE. I converts the cooler from a pressure based feed (not very effective IMO) to a thermostat controlled circuit. Much better at regulating oil temps. There's a couple different ways to switch the...

That's because the JDM oil pressure sensor was hooked up and it fried the gauge ;)

14mm or 9/16" 12 point head on ARP bolts ;)

Ohhh...it will be MUCH more painful than that :biglaugh:

Nick - I think the Direct Clutch (C2) connects the input shaft to the front and rear planetary gears...the OD Direct Clutch (C0) connects the OD sun gear and carrier to the input shaft. http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=AT&P=5

I didn't think JJ was being rude at all...geez dude :3d_frown: Anyway, I had the same high speed inop problem on my CC and it was the high switch. It would not hold in the depressed position...if I held it with my finger, the blower ran on high fine. I had another CC converted to blue LED...

Yes, the sprags were changed out...Toyota from what I remember. Might want to PM IJ and find out what he used.

^^^ Yeah, and in 16 years you need a good shotgun :biglaugh: Congrats man!

Good comments guys...you're getting the idea :) The brand of oil is much less important than how it flows cold, followed what viscosity it runs at ops temp. All of the motors (1J, 2J, 7M) you see in a Supra are designed for a 30W viscosity (SAE grade 9.30-12.49 cst). I use GC (after trying...

For the money, there's better. RP's additive pack is more suited to a race motor w/ frequent changes...that can get expensive, unless you use oil analysis to determine the change interval.

Keep something in mind when you guys are talking about the various 30W multi-grades. The 1st number (0W, 5W, 10W) ONLY pertains to the cold flow characteristics of the oil...IMO, the lower the viscosity, the better when it come so this number. You want the best possible flow you can get on a...

I know what aircraft it was. ;) Back in the day, I dipped a cigarette in LOX...a friend of mine would always bum one after a flight. So I gave it to him. The whole thing burned to the butt in a nano second when he lit it...LOL!

Dude - Everything you're saying is based on pure speculation. Mobil 1 or ANY motor oil, "high mileage" or otherwise, will not stop a leak. You don't want to hear the truth and you don't listen...like I said, Mobil 1 is not a true Syn oil...it is a Group III base stock made from oil pulled out...