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LOL...true, some grain change is evident at temps as low as 250 deg F. To get significant changes in yield and tensile strength requires temps over 450 deg F...I hope the cooler is not exposed to temps that high! ;)

I didn't know the RX-7 cooler was made out of plastic...everyone I've seen was metal :sarcasm: Last I checked, metal does not get "old and brittle"...the cooler is not even under any structural stress.

Bad hose and/or clogged up line to the reservoir.

If you are going with a full flow cooler circuit like I describe in the above thread, you will have to block the old oil pan return and that is correct size bolt to use. Also get an appropriate size oil pan washer to use with the bolt.

:puke:

The water leak could be a couple of things...the lower radiator hose if it was coming from the front. If from the side, that could be a blown freeze plug...a royal PITA to replace with the motor in the car. from the rear on the engine, there's a small hose that connects the fitting at the back...

Well...opinion is a matter of perspective. On aircraft, the hydraulic systems have both filters and cooling provisions...the reason, failure can be a very bad thing resulting in your termination. Both JJ and I have that perspective and it carries over to the other machines we run. Not because...

Get an OEM pump (Aisin), make sure it's for a turbo motor (the gearing is different from the NA), and shim the relief valve 4-5mm. Get rid of the stock filter head and switch the cooler system to a full flow, thermostat controlled circuit. That will go a long way keeping your motor happy with...

Read this...it will answer most of them ;) BTW - the NA stud does not need a sealer...and since you're relocating the filter, you should not need Lock Tight either. Installing a Full Flow, Thermostat Controlled Oil Cooler & Remote Filter

TS - Mobil 1 ATF would be an excellent choice as well. Keep in mind power steering fluid lives a rather "cushy" life compared to motor oil. A filter is not a bad idea IMO...there is actually a screen type filter in the PS reservoir. It's purpose is to keep any debris out of the pump...a...

Different story...you can custom tune the fuel map. I also run an EGR for the reason it's on the car...I notice it everytime I drive down from the higher elevation where I live to the city. A rather nasty looking brown cloud. ;)

A husband emerged from the bathroom naked and was climbing into bed when his wife complained, as usual, "I have a headache." "Perfect," her husband said." I was just in the bathroom powdering my penis with aspirin. You can take it orally, or as a suppository, it's up to you."

Yep, much more of a big picture view of what NA cams do vs a rather narrow definition...Well said Dan ;)

Nah...just having a bit of fun ;)

Doesn't really matter...you need them for the fuel rail to mount properly to the head. Your injectors will not line up correctly without them.

I wouldn't say "it blows ass" ;) The power/torque curve does flatten out above 4000 rpm or so with NA cams...max HP is achieved with turbo cams. There are a LOT of other factors that determine what you can get out of the motor.

My EGT's dropped 50-100 deg's C when I re-installed the EGR to pass emissions. Plus, the USDM ECU's fuel map is calibrated for having the EGR present. Knowing that now, I won't run a 7M motor without it.

Oil flow to the bearings is far more important...thinner oil at cold temps flows better. Read this: Motor Oil 101 A bit long, but worth the time ;)

WHY WOULD YOU WANT TO BLOCK OFF THE EGR?

Yep! Red Line is excellent gear oil. You should be fine with the MTL...next change get the MT90 though and you'll really love the shifts. What scares me is when I read guys using RP Synchromax or Max Gear in their tranny...that is NOT good!