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OK.

Don't know if it's possible on the Supra, but I once had the cold start injector go bad/ stuck open in my Z car, and I could barely keep it running due to all the fuel pouring in, and all the black soot pouring out.

I don't know what that Venom thing does, except maybe fool the ecu into thinking it needs to leave fuel enrichment on. Do you remember if you had to connect it to the cold start switch? Anyway, Go with a MAFT, and you can blow the HKS open air, and you'll have a bit of TPS position- and wide...

Yeah, what I said. :naughty:

I don't know if they're etched in or not, honestly. It might just be ink.

What are you having done to the block at the machine shop?

I was going to say that you should retorque to head first also. You might very well find that they've loosened a bit, especially the exhaust side.

You want to recirculate because the air has already gone thru the MAF, and the ECU has already sent the signal to the injectors to deliver to proper balance of fuel. If you don't reciculate, then the fuel gets into the cylinders, but the air has left the party early. I assume you're talking...

So... you don't need the 550's then?

Update- Got mine, they fit perfectly.

As promised, here's a pic of my Goodson shims:

Today's update- After work, I installed the new shims I received from Goodson.com, and installed my ex. cam to check clearance. After one last switch-around, I now have all clearances correct. I then installed the ex. manifold studs into the heli-coiled holes with locktite. Head is pretty much...

As I mentioned in another thread, Goodson.com has good prices(maybe the best) on 4-packs of 25mm shims. I just put a bunch in tonight, and will be posting a pic of the shims and the head( since it's finally frikken done!). The nice thing about the Goodson shims, is that they have the size...

I dunno either, but I would expect that if it's being forced into the cooler under X psi that it would prolly flow well no matter how you mounted it.

The item I linked to above goes vertically into the pan, so it would have to have the threaded bung welded into the bottom. As for point of leak, not a problem. It's a simple NPT thread, and you could just screw it in with some teflon tape or thread seal liquid and be done with it.

Yeah, I had a crazy oil leak once. My front crank seal blew out while driving from Charlotte to Atlanta in the middle of the night. I lost 3 quarts before I noticed the oi pressure was reading only slightly lower than normal.

Same here.

If it feels just the same, I'm wondering if you're starting to lean out on top, as you don't show ANY fuel mods in your description...

That was an awesome launch. It looked like a catapult shot.

I have seen online that it's been std equipment in quite a few cars, like BMW's, Audi's, VW's, and even Toyotas like the Previa and others. I was worried about cutting into the oil pan at the right height, and then worried about sealing issues, but then i found this item, originally made for...