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Check the wires on the CPS, they sometimes get crossed or poor contacts. Try moving them around a bit. Also, If you did the valve cover gaskets, you messed with the coil/igniter connection. try wiggling that a bit.

The starting issue is the solenoid on the starter. You CAN replace the faulty contacts inside the solenoid, but it's easier to replace the entire starter, and only costs about $60-75 for one w/ warranty. The CPS has an o-ring around it's base. If you get one from the dealership, you can...

The front one has to be dimpled- aka pounded in the center, as it's made convex. That drives the outer edge into the block seat. I got a brass set on Ebay, packaged specifically for the 7M (all metric).

I was wondering if anyone had a good shot of their front timing cover area, with theouter covers removed. I'm trying to piece together where all of the new studs and fasteners should go. The TSRM isn't as helpful, as alot of the fastener numers have changed. Thanks.

After clearing the codes, drive it locally. I'm not sure if the ECU will register any codes if it just idles. You may have to run it around the block for a minute or two. I don't really think that theO2 sensor can cause a HUGE rich mixture, aspecially at idle, and at wide open throttle, it...

Thanks. I just ordered $60 in fasteners from the dealership- OUCH! I ordered all new front timing cover fasteners, new flywheel bolts, and the expensive part was those stupid grommets and steel sleeves that go into the coil bracket mount. $24 just for those 4 setups.

That's a guy.

And because of that.....you bought a.....Supra? ::hah:: ::bhg:: :bigun2:

It wouldn't be a bad idea to pick up that engine, toofast, even though it has RK. You never really know exactly what you're getting with a JDM setup, or any other, so it makes sense that no matter where you get your motor, you should plan on tearing it down and rebuilding it, so you don't have...

Yes, you are winning. We'll see who gets it in their car first... :naughty:

Nothing really exciting... After leaving the crank caps and rod caps torqued for a few days, I retorqued them again before locking down the oil pan for good. I found that the rod caps had loosened slightly from settling, so I'm glad I did it. Red RTV Pretty stainless fasteners...

I'm in Kennesaw, just down the street from you actually. If you need info on a salvage yard, or maybe need help w/ the car, send me a message. I'm in the process of replacing my engine, then on to bodywork myself.

Also, check the local salvage yards, they sometimes have a good hood. I know that there's a descent one at a yard south of Hartsfield, I just saw it last week. What part of town are you in?

Um. Maybe you might think about switching to decaf? :icon_bigg From his post count, I'd say he's brand new here, may not even have known that there WAS a vender section.

Well, it also seems that the metal shaft which makes up the pedal's 'arm' is rather thin and flexible as well. I was thinking of trying to reinforce that as well.

D&A machine shop, Canton, Georgia. They decked my cylinder head, bored/honed my block for forged pistons, resized my rods, and polished my crank. Haven't finished the engine yet, so dunno exactly how good the work was, but it looks pretty nice. Their prices are reasonable for sure.

About 2 years ago, I tried to tighten my gas pedal, as it seemed to flex way too much. Well, the upper bolt stripped where it was threaded into the weld nut, and so it would just turn, not loosening or tightening, and I couldn't remove it. Well, I got smart, and I put a Second nut on the...

Well, today I increased the extension of the oil pump pickup into the oil pan. I set it about 5mm closer to the bottom of the pan. I also cleaned and painted the pan in low-gloss black, and installed the wrap-around coolant pipe, which is painted red. I'll have a pic or two up tomorrow, since I...

Yeah, I'd like to upgrade to the Gen II eventually.

I don't know if a 4.3 is helping your gas mileage...