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TRAITOR!! How dare you come in here and speak that Nissan garbage. Somebody ban him! I don't know jack about sr20det's, so I can't comment on the dollar for dollar aspect of upgrading. I just figured since you already have an engine that can propel a MKIII supra (a much heavier car) down the...

Blowing apex seals on a rotary engine is the equivelant to BHG to 7mgte's. I think.

Back again. Finally had some time to take the clutch master off. I disassembled it to see what the inner working look like. The cylinder bore has scoring and corrosion in it. The piston has scoring on it, and the rubber cups worn. There was some black gunk sitting in the reservoir cup...

Ok, I finally got around to it after some honey do's. I bled it with that one man kit I bought from NAPA. I didn't see any more bubbles going through the clear hose. I did it several times just to make sure. I took out the drivers seat and snuck under the dash to adjust any freeplay I...

Why not transplant your 7m and slap it in your 180sx. I know it'll throw of the weight distribution, but it would be a beast. Sell the MKIII chassis, or part it out. Sell the sr20det. Or are you planning on taking that sr20det to the max?

Thanks, I'll do that tomorrow as well. ---------- Post added at 11:10 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:07 PM ---------- I've tried that bleed method and still would get into gear while the car was running. I have not tried to adjust the play yet. I'll do both tomorrow and see what...

It looks good. Nice friends you have. Base coat/ clear coat? What kind of paint did you use?

It goes into gear with the engine off. Just not when the car is running. I should have clarified that. If I start it in first gear with the clutch all the way in the car jumps foward. Trans was laying in its natural flat position on my creeper when it was out of my car. The only time I...

R154 transmission. Resurfaced stock flywheel (FW). Used TRD pressure plate (PP). New Toyota throw out bearing. New Toyota clutch disc. New Toyota pilot bearing. New (not reman) Beck Arnley clutch slave cylinder. Same old 100k mile shift fork. Same old 100k mile clutch master cylinder...

Ok, I removed the clutch fork and all six bolts from the PP to FW. I pulled back the PP to look at the clutch dics. It is NOT in backwards. The PP straps look fine. They aren't busted. I thought I bled the clutch slave cylinder enough. I'm gonna ask in the tech section as well.

And knowing is half the battle.

Well, I don't have my original manual. Only going by what TSRM has printed. I just read Motor Oil 101, and it makes perfect sense. You're right though.... ignorance is bliss.

I'll just stick with what toyota has recommended 20 years ago for a 20 year old car. No doubt motor oil has advanced in the last two decades, but that doesn't get me excited enough to pay more for it.

It's better to be safe than sorry. Put that spare intercooler on until you can upgrade.

Yes, oil has come a long way since then. I wouldn't go as far as going too thin on the viscosity though. Even castrol has a general breakdown of the different grades of oil and recommended use of each on them...

Super white with blue cloth interior.

I like it better than the stock sawblades. Not bad. Now drop the front and give it a nice rake. You need to get some trim though. :naughty:

TSRM's recommended viscosity is 10w-40 & 10w-30 from 0 to 100+ degrees. 5w-30 from 50degrees and under. Under normal driving conditions they recommend changing your oil every 5000 miles or 6 months. Change your oil filter every 10000miles or 12 months. Of course this was printed back in...

I see your point, but there are colors out there that will go good with burgandy interior. White, Silver, Black, lime green, charcoal grey... I can't think of any else. Maybe you can.

Well since you've already considered dropping some major coin on a candy paint job why not do a color change with a color you'd really like. Any color. Door jambs and all.