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Heat can be complicated, AC is simple. Your coolant valve not shutting off when the temp is set to 65 indicates a problem but doesn't have anything to do with the AC being inop. As Nick said it's mostly about the AC amplifier (not the system amplifier which is what you're referring to) and the...

No need to be sorry but all not trying will do is keep you confused. Just measure where and how the book says. I know you can do it. It's either that or remove and replace the AFM, engine harness, and ECU. Not exactly the best way to do things...

They're not the same grounds. One is chassis ground while the other is sensor ground. Not that it matters...much ;)

You looked in the TSRM? http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=96 http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=50 If the AFM itself checks out but the resistance is infinite at the ECU, shorted, or doesn't jive with the ambient temp then...

That usually happens because, unless their contacts are gold or the housing is sealed and filled with inert gas (almost never found on cars), run-off-the-mill relays depend on the arc caused by make/break to prevent oxidation of their contact surfaces. It's the opposite of contact erosion and...

If your coolant valve isn't closing off the air mix servo probably isn't moving. That could also cause issues with the heat. Are you trying to fix heat or AC? One is simple. The other, not so much...

Nah, it's "old" wiring ;) In some respects you got lucky. The problem usually (but not always) involves something else related to the relay but even if it's elsewhere oxidation is almost always involved. That's why I advocate electrical maintenance of the sort you did. At minimum connectors...

Finally (after 2.5 years) we have a winner...

If you hear the fuel pump running when the clutch is depressed and the key at start (as you claim in post #1) the clutch switch is working. Member radiod has already pointed that out. He also stated "it's going to be some testing with a multimeter to see what the problem is"...

A minor correction: the sensor in question isn't involved with cruise control...

"What we have here is a...."

The TB should be set up in the following order: 1) Plate just fully closed, stop screw touching stop. 2) TPS adjusted (set IDL contact) 3) Dashpot adjusted. (first check it's functional) The above is done with the linkage disconnected at the TB. Adjust the linkage and reconnect it last.

At the risk of failing again I guess you never saw the video I made a couple years back where I drive around town with everything upstream of the turbo removed :)

You should feel a little smarter Dave. To feel dumber means I've failed :( You're right about an idle increase when the FPR hose is disconnected though. However that's due to enrichment, not pirate air...

22 is ok. I wouldn't go smaller though, not so much because of electrical issues but because smaller is delicate. That said it's likely Belden makes something similar in a thicker gauge. If not I'm sure others do. Alpha or Carol comes to mind.

Pirate air only causes high idle on D Type (pressure metered) systems. On L Type (airflow metered) engines idle quality is effected. Assuming it's induction related L Type high idle has to involve metered air. Throttle plate not fully closed or some issue related to TB bypass air eg; ISC...

It'll rev all day long in diag. You could drive it around like that forever and not notice except for the MIL doing something all the time. You need to check for other codes along the 51 behavior I mentioned.

Then you have another code(s). 51 is real time. It doesn't get set in memory and will not illuminate the MIL unless the ECU is in diag mode. Therefore if the MIL is coming on and you're not in diag mode the illumination is unrelated to 51 and is being set by something else. Now if you have...

What do you mean the CEL stays off until exceeding 1500 rpm? When it comes on does it blink or stay on? Are you operating the car in diag mode?

Pirate air will not cause idle speed increase on an L Type engine. If it's induction leak related it has to be due to metered air.