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Ok, I see. You were trying to check emulated cross counts, which is what I was alluding to. Fair nuff. I still don't see where it says to short Vf to ground though. Although it's unlikely to hurt anything you should still try and avoid doing that.

Bought mine new in 87. Owned a 78 Celica before that. So there ;)

Why would you short Vf to ground? And you understand with the diag block jumped Vf is no longer Vf right?

I was referring to the mass change-over to FWD in US cars which began around 1980. My point was prior to that pretty much all cars were RWD and driving them in snow was the norm. Those of us who are old enough to have driven back then had no trouble doing it. Hell, I drove my SS Chevelle in some...

Crack me up. The car isn't the problem. The problem is experience. That and, although front wheel drive hasn't been around very long, it's been around longer than most here...

Assuming the push start was done for other than a dead battery it would be less stressful in the electrical sense than a normal start. I suppose an argument could be made it isn't good for the belt/bearings but then again an argument could be made that push starting stresses the entire engine...

Since those codes may be old or were set for reasons not associated with actual sensor failure the first step is to clear them and see what comes back...

As Colin pointed out the CSI can't operate unless the key is at the start position. Nor will fuel priming and ECU starting enrichment using the main injectors occur. All those things depend on the starting circuit in some fashion.

Expect code 43 to be set when doing it. It may not start easily when cold unless the clutch switch is made and the key held to start at the same time. Otherwise it's not a problem...

Ain't that the truth. Without mentioning names it reminds me of someone who used to post here that's currently in state prison for doing something that made absolutely no sense at all.

Inch pounds means you buy a tool that will do the job. Something like a Utica TS-30, which is what I use. You can often find them cheap on ebay. If not any inch pound torque wrench of the proper range along with a bit set will do. And I was kidding about the oil cooler. Loss of viscosity and...

^ This. Put them on right and check torque on occasion. I did it at every oil change along with a bunch of other stuff. No leaks, ever. It also helps if you run without an oil cooler ;)

You expected wrong. The technique was no different than establishing the efficiency of any heat exchanger: the delta T across it was measured. The stock cooler works and as reaper pointed out Toyota wouldn't have put it on the car unless it was needed and did something. I say again: stop...

http://tinyurl.com/zgtcl http://tinyurl.com/23k3hdp Cheap and very effective....and if you remove the rod you can listen to your neighbors a block away. Not that I would ever do that ;)

1) When the actuator linkage is up the valve is open. 2) The linkage is up when vacuum is applied. 3) What Satan said.

What causes it is pressure drop due to Bernoulli's Principle. Think venturi. Although there's little of that in throttle bodies used with EFI icing is still possible under certain conditions. Heating mainly aids in fuel vaporization when cold. The ISCV is heated because it's the source of bypass...

Crack me up. As if the oil itself is the only issue that should be considered. Especially cracks me up about Devin, who drives a modded car in Vegas, without a cooler, refuses to use anything but off branded dino oil, and actually thinks everything is fine because he's driven 2000 miles "without...

The resistor is necessary in the sense it either needs to be installed or bypassed if removed. It's rare for a 7M ECU to fail. Possible but unlikely. Typical causes of no MIL would be bad wiring or a blown lamp. These are easily checked by measuring/grounding terminal W on the ECU. Or you...

You're mistaken. The system amplifier is inside the head unit. It controls cabin temperature using the ambient and in-car sensors by manipulating fan speed and the blend dampers in an attempt to match cabin temp to desired temp when the system is in auto. It's temperature driven and has nothing...

Could have nothing to do with whether others have had the problem...