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Well... The TSRM weighs at least 32 oz., so... ;)

Those pics show what looks like a fairly stock CT26. If the compressor wheel IS bigger, it doesn't look it, unless those are file photos, and not the actual product.

It will of course do this, since the gears mesh at an angle. So don't worry too much about that. Worst case scenario, you have to adjust the cps the oppsite direction by one tooth. But again- What's with the clanking description???

Good luck with the build!

Umm. Nice car- and interesting manifold idea, for sure. um... How old are you? I was just curious.

If anyone's interested, I just read in Import tuner magazine that they will be doing an article on a mkIII, as well as JZ conversion stuff, in next month's issue.

When the cps is installed correctly, the cps tooth can sometimes jump one tooth off, even when you're very careful. I always install the cps with the outer cover off, so I can tell if the shaft rotates. Also, what do you mean by "clanking"? Do you mean a loud ticking noise, or does it...

Looking good. I used the same rubber seal on my windshield as you did.

How bad a misfire? Just an almost imperceptible stumble every couple of seconds, or a more noticeable stutter? If it's the former, then a popular mod is to ground the ignitor, which often clears up the stumble. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?52217-IGNITER-GROUND...-crispics

Did you load the engine while breaking it in? You should have run it up to decent rpm and load, then decelerated in gear to put it under vacuum pressure, about a dozen times, and used a straight weight oil, to avoid the extra additives. This is to seat the rings.

You're welding in a new wheel well and quarter panel, and are shying away from dropping the subframe?? I would drop the subframe simply for the ease of control arm access, and to check for other issues. Many subframes have cracks over the nose of the diff, and almost all subframe bushings are...

My first car was a '77 Datsun 280z. That motor/ tranny are bulletproof. If you want reliability in an older Japanese sports car, that's the one I would suggest. Parts are cheap, but finding a good 280Z that isn't a rust bucket is tough for $4,000. If you could though, It's a nice car, and will...

I bought the Megan EZ street's you mentioned. I can't speak for their feel or longevity, though. I have yet to drive on them. I bought them because the spring rates were softer than most coilovers, because I'm using the car for daily driving as well.

Looks good. Now you have me scared about my probes! Luckily, my car is down for upgrade as well, and I also plan on going to Wiseco's.

The diagnostic plug is the port right next to the fuse box. Jumper T and E1.

Very nice. I just powdercoated my rotor hats and brake calipers, and also plan to wrinkle finish my manifold and valve covers. And if I can get a similar price to yours on zinc plating, I might have all my engine fasteners redone as well.

Small end up, big end down. :biglaugh: Sorry. I don't really know if there is a wrong way to install them, as far as what side should be facing forward or rearward.

The swap from 7MGE to 7MGTE is the most popular mod to the Supra, and is covered in a billion threads. I see you have 5 posts, welcome to Supramania. You will find every answer to every question you can imagine in here. In fact, it's very rare that someone comes up with a completely new...

Looks good. Get it together, and let's hear it.

^^ 1. is correct, except that voltage goes from 9 volts to 12+ volts. 2. is the idle-up vac line. It's not for progressive power steering, but rather to bump idle when you turn the steering wheel, as the pump will put a large load on the engine. 3. is either the egr or fuel vsv 4. and 5.- wish I...