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So here's what I've been doing today. I had BIC nylon rear subframe bushings, but they were too noisy, transmitting too much of the diff noise into the car. If this were going to be a track car, I wouldn't care, as they do take out all the slop, but this is going to be a road car for 99% of its...

Sorry for spreading mis-information, I always thought 7M headbolts were TTY. I agree that ARP headstuds are not necessary for an NA. ps- I like your seats. I intend to do the same thing next month for my maroon interior, but I'll do the reverse- maroon seats with a black insert.

Do not re-use your head bolts. They are torque-to-yield, and as they have already been torqued at least once, they have already been stretched, and they should be replaced. Stock-type head bolts are very cheap.

Sounds like a weak battery. Question is- why was there smoke? Was it from overheating? If so- why did it overheat? Or was it something actually burning- if so, what?

What he said. Plus, I think Driftmotion probably uses Toyota o-rings. But regardless, I've never had an issue with any brand o-rings.

Well, like I said- If it's running fine, don't mess with it.

To me, that kinda sounds like the fan might be hitting the shoud, or a bad alternator bearing. It's kind of hard to diagnose. I would think you could pinpoint it with a stethescope.

So far, I've only installed my rears, but it was super easy! Of course...having no rear subframe in the car provides a not-so-surprising increase in working space...

Then you're lucky. If i'm recalling correctly, anything going into our afm's can ruin the frequency 'mirror'. But all's well that ends well, for sure.

Early style, roud plug: Later style, D-shaped plug: I don't know about using one of each kind, but I bought a pair of '94(iirc) 4Runner knock sensors, and spliced in the new plugs. Haven't had an issue in 5+ yrs. PS- This is on an '88 harness/ ecu.

No updates this week. Spent $500 on furniture and $300 on new Khumo's for my daughter's car. Still waiting for some urethane parts to come in before I show off pics of the reinstalled rear subframe.

Congrats dude. I think we all figured it'd be something reasonably simple to fix. Er... did you say you used afm cleaner?

Looking good.

Looks like good progress. What kind of wheels did you get?

Are you positive that you had a good connection on both positive and negative jumper cables?

LOL. I was thinking the same thing. "hella lotta power in that 1,000rpm powerband"... I also doubt that it's either the plugs OR the cat. You'd definately be able to get past 2,000rpm with either issue. Maybe you could describe the quality of the idle, and are you able to get past 2,000 on part...

The turbo timer I have, is a 1st or 2nd gen Greddy. They are NOT rare, and not very valuable. The guy gave it to me for free when I bought the entire engine swap.

The few comments on the forums that I've seen, seem to all be very positive concerning the fitment, so I'm very optimistic.

great progress!

I had put rubber shock covers over the shock's piston on my rear koni's. I guess they helped protect them; and they certainly didn't hurt anything.