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Update: I just called Toyota(in fact, I'm still on the phone as I type this), and they sell them. Part # 43324-14010, $16 each. Now that strikes me as pricey, considering you can get all 4 boots for about the same amount from ES in poly, but at least I know these will fit perfectly, and I won't...

No, I searched Upper arm. The only thing that concerns me, is the long term results of this part. I have no doubt that the poly holds up perfectly, but these boots don't appear to have a lip on them to 'lock' onto the corresponding lip built into the upper arm. The person in that post...

Thanks! I KNEW I'd seen that thread a long time ago, just didn't find it.

Well, Got just a little bit done today, more tomorrow, hopefully. With some helpful advice from Toyotanos, I finally managed to break loose both of my rear CV axles. Ordered some new ones, as well as new wheel studs for the rear. Also, I managed to pop out one of the rear spherical bushings...

Hey guys- I did a little searching, and saw a few threads concerning attempts at replacing the upper ball joint, or the entire upper arm with custom arms. However, I've found that both my rear upper arms seem to be in good working order, but one of the rubber covers is torn, and the other...

I *thought* I had that attachment, but I was thinking of my slide hammer attatchment, which isn't 'domed', and wouldn't work. Went to Autozone, they rented me one for $25, and had the damned thing out on the first try. Just did the other side, came off like butter. Well, at least I'll get my...

Ok..... ...you rule....

You mean, sorta like this?

I have the above axle puller. There is no way to connect it. The center point would go against the axle hub, but what do you bolt it to? I expect that I'll have to take it somewhere, and pay a guy to airhammer it out... Oh, and PS- I tried heating the axle with a torch, no luck.

Ok, need some help here, and thought maybe one of you had a unique way to remove a rear axle. Attempts: Soaking in PB blaster Tapping out with block of wood and 2lb hammer Using bolt-on puller to 'press out' the axle Smacking directly with 2lb hammer, with nut on loose to protect threads...

As for head and block, you do want to take them both to a machine shop, and have them check the mating surfaces. Also have the crank checked. If your headgasket blew, you may have gotten coolant into the oil, meaning all the bearing surfaces could have been contaminated. For me, I would do the...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SILICONE-RADIATOR-ANCILARRY-HOSE-Toyota-Supra-MK3-MA70-7MGE-7MGTE-7M-GT-20PCS-/250944852953?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item3a6d7a93d9 ?

As far as head gaskets, I would say Felpro or OEM Toyota. Since you don't plan to up the boost any time soon, you don't need to think about metal head gaskets. I would suggest that you use ARP head studs, in place of oem bolts, though. It'll be triple the cost for the ARP's, but they can be used...

Looking great. I look forward to more updates.

I don't think anyone's gonna flame you, except to say that it would have been nice to see the Cress finished first. But since you're going in favor of a Supra, I doubt you'll hear any complaints here. :) Nice looking Supra, too. Keep the updates coming.

Go to the for sale section. There's a few people selling grey plug harnesses- you should have no problem finding one. PS- That's a GOOD car for that amount of money.

Good luck with that. Bent exterior, blown motor, shredded interior. You have a LOT of work ahead of you. I suggest you begin with one section of the car at a time. For example, begin with the body work. It'll require you to strip some of the interior, and that way you can replace bad interior...

Glad to hear that 16/12 is acceptable for street use. Makes me feel that 14/8 will be just fine for daily driving.

Well, I just purchased Megan Street coilovers. They should be here in a few days. I will take it for a quick drive once I finish my front and rear subframe upgrades- http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?154373-Project-Git-er-done-before-the-Mayans-come!-Stage-1...

While the rod is a more durable part than the cast piston, I would tell you that a single replacement new is only about $40, or you could buy a used one from the classified section here for even less.