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Well, if you're keeping the AC it needs to stay. Or if you want to mod it for cooling. For example mine came on as needed after shutdown. edit: Beaten by Devin except he's sort of wrong ;)

^ Trust me, owning a real one isn't much better....

Condenser fan...

Lmao. This folks, is exactly why I killed my car...

Code 31 does indicate a problem but it doesn't mean the AFM is bad. Which two prongs? Can you link to the page?

There ya go. And just so you know nearly all the Karman sensors I've tested that were claimed to be "out of spec" had nothing wrong with them. Either the person measured the IAT portion or, when testing the Karman portion, failed to account for meter polarity like the TSRM specifies.

I'd have thought since I didn't answer his question the reply would be interpreted at being directed towards you but I guess not. Anyway, read it again...

Just buy the lex and use its sensor in the stock housing until you're ready to upgrade.

10 psi is babying the clutch as much as possible? Quit doing that and it'll last a surprisingly long time.

What he said. 3500-4000 per roll, Scotts 1000, 1 year OCI. I also machined new parts for the newer MG housing but the nylon parts that come with it will work. The other one I have is an early model that was made specifically for oil. Dunno about the Frantz but the MG fits well where the evap...

Imo it's still messier than a spin-on but I agree about channeling. I think it's mostly a myth born of user error. As long as the roll is tightly wound and compressed by the housing it won't channel. I've used MotorGuards for years on several different cars and have never seen evidence of it.

Hmmm. You guys understand EGT peaks very near stoichiometric at any given power right? And that further leaning (or enrichment for that matter) results in a cooler EGT?

Fascinating. Your transmission problems aside did it not occur to you that by putting the bottle in hot water for 20 minutes that stuff would've poured right out?

I'll pass on the other symptoms but regarding code 42 the vehicle speed sensor is not in the transmission but in the speedometer. The cruise control diagnostics can be used to run a quick check on it but I suspect all you'll find by doing that is a confirmation it's not working...

Depending on what the current (a little electrical pun there) symptom is super secret's point has merit. If there's no power at all check the battery connections. Which reminds me of an old mechanic's trick: crank the engine with the headlights on. If they dim the battery connections are...

It was just a car. I'm not totally devoid of soul however ;) JS: As long as someone makes an effort to do their part I'm here to help. It's the only reason I've ever been here and it's the only thing I've asked in return...

I stand corrected on the filter. It does look like a K&N.

It would best to remember many of these cars end up as a POS not only due to age but because they get passed down through a chain of well meaning but clueless people. It's why I get a chuckle out of those who rant about previous owners while clearly continuing the process. I'm not suggesting...

Uh, that the hunting doesn't stop when the ISCV is unplugged proves it's NOT the valve....