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Restating the answer: Without going into detail it depends on the cause but all involve idle.

If you can smell raw fuel there's a leak. Jumper the fuel pump on and inspect the system paying particular attention to the supply and return lines. An emissions analyzer makes that easy but I'm guessing you'll have to do it the old fashioned way...

Without going into detail it depends on the cause but all involve idle. If it were me I'd just fix it...

Rovhal...

So, a max operating temp of appx 950 F (about as good as it gets for Ti alloys) followed by a reduction in fatigue limit due to creep and oxidation even when precipitation hardened. I think I'll pass, at least on the exhaust valves...

Gotta love some of the "facts" in post 21. OP: Which alloy are we talking about here?

Huh? The engine will crank even if the CPS isn't installed.

Uh, heavy duty trash bag and vacuum. I'm also a fan of VCI products. Very effective and much easier to deal with than grease/oil.

The infamous "Dextron" strikes again...

Lol, it's "grammar"....and it's "alternator" ;) I point all that out because unlike some here you appear to make an effort when writing. In fact that's one reason I responded to your query in the first place. It could be electrical I suppose. It could be a zillion other things too...

The usual suspects. Vacuum, throttle linkage, ISC system, TPS, codes. A loose intake manifold ground would shut the ECU off. Loose grounds related to the fuel injectors or fuel pump circuit could also do it. Again though, I doubt the problem is electrical. Hard to offer more because I don't...

As was suspected your charging system is fine. Forget about it and look elsewhere...

Huh? I don't think it's electrical and even if it was the charging system isn't involved. Doesn't make sense it would be. Battery light is off, battery and connections are good enough to repeatably start the car (therefore good enough to run it if even the alt wasn't working), etc. All I'm...

Well, the battery light is going to come on when the engine dies. The alt isn't working for sure then. If it's off when the engine is running the alt is probably ok though. Put a meter across the battery with the engine running just to be sure. Should be around 14 volts or so. Same with the...

As I suspected. That's the air temperature sensor. Has nothing to do with airflow or code 31. Since you have 31 though the airflow sensor itself could still be bad. Or maybe not...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CmYDgncMhXw ;)

I doubt it's the alternator. Does the battery light come on? At least see what voltage is being delivered to the battery. As for the MIL don't worry about it. The ECU does a bulb check whenever rpm falls below 400...

I assume you're referring to intake valves...

Well, Devin is no dummy. He's coming along nicely. Got the knack me thinks. Glad I was able to help with that btw. Not the only case of it I've seen. Shows what a scope can do...

JS: Unless you mod the wiring that fan comes on only when high side pressure or coolant temp is excessive and the key is on. Due to the engine fan pulling air through the rad and condensor that shouldn't happen but I suppose it could in Devin's climate. Fwiw I had an audible alarm connected to...