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Synchromesh oil is used in the NVG3500 manual transmission. This transmission was designed to be lubricated by 5W-30 motor oil. W58 and R154 transmissions were designed to be lubricated by an API GL4 or GL5 spec 75W-90 gear oil. Synchromesh does not meet any API GL specification. Just because...

Checked the local Holden dealer IJ? Be advised that Syncromesh is a lighter weight oil and bearing and gear life will be reduced in the R154 or W58.

I like to use the KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid) principle whenever possible. It may delay your spoolup a really small bit but the payoff will be many fold.

Go 3".

Those pictures show a sad incompetence in the track workers. Were they waiting for someone to get back with the marshmallows before they tried to put the fire out?

Get in contact with BLKMGK on the AEM forum. He is from Manassas IIRC and can point you to a good shop or maybe even help you tune it yourself, I dunno if he does that sort of thing though.

I get a voltage range from .52v @ idle to 3.67v @ WOT. If you are using a stock ecu, be sure to include an idle switch.

Awesome news Grant. I guess I'll go ahead and start overhauling/upgrading that TH350 I've had laying around forever. My tow vehicle has a nice overdrive in it. :D

Last I checked, Mello was selling his .080" over shortblock. Pick that up and save your block for the future.

http://www.dartheads.com/hondab.aspx ^That is the Honda block I was referring to. They are much nicer than OEM blocks and with a brand new casting, the world of possibilities is opened up. How about priority main oiling? The fitment of a better oil pump? 4 bolt or even 6 bolt mains? More...

Yeah, sounds like the miscelaneous crud that built up burning off of the exhaust. Take it for an easy test drive then check for leaks and fluid levels and such...

Seems to be a fairly common problem. I banged mine back straight and laid a fat bead of weld along the outside of the shoulder to hold it up against the pressure of the adjusting cam. An alignment can be done without it, just use a prybar to move the arm instead of the cam.

If you want to have clean injectors, send them off to an injector shop and have them professionally cleaned and flow tested. Definitely replace the o rings. I lube the ones on the rail end with petroleum jelly before installing them to insure they do not tear or bunch up. A good injector shop...

Yes, it is street racing slang for ten carlengths advantage at the starting line and the chance to start first (second car will start when they see the first one move).

There is a nice calculator on this page, along with all the information you need to use it properly- http://www.rceng.com/technical.htm

Call up Dart and ask how much they'd want for one. I'm sure they could make one as strong or stronger than the stock block. My machinist had a few of the Dart Honda blocks laying around last time I was there. They are really nice. BTW, Aluminum blocks all have cylinder liners, thread inserts...

Flakey coil, CPS or wiring of said components would be a good place to start checking. Have you narrowed down what cylinder(s) is(are) missing?

Click on his screen name, then public profile. The mod list is in there. Not much of the stuff you have now is going to be useful around 600 rwhp. 7mpower.com is a good place to go for some ideas.

Meh, before you chuck the whole idea in the dumpster, check into how the 1JZ guys get around fuel cut and decide if that is good for you.

:withstupi Get cracking!