Search results

No time to type it all out but I'll repeat something I've said before about all sorts of things fan related: more CFM is not necessarily better. Has to do with residence time. Iirc didn't/don't you also have cooling problems?

You're welcome. Fwiw you can buy a cheap battery powered counter for around $20 and get a real number. For freq alone any decent DMM will do. I have better instruments but if I was in a bind that's what I'd have done. Metrology always beats head scratching for weeks :)

Hmmm. I won't go into why but truck fan clutches on cars are a bad idea. You would not be the first to make the tundra mistake.

As you pointed out it's going to depend on several factors. Why not simply measure it? Any frequency or universal counter will work.

It's four pulses per revolution of the speedo cable if that's any help. You should be able to figure it from that.

Flushing is usually not all that effective on aged condensers. If you do replace it might as well upgrade to parallel flow. Iirc someone on here found a direct fit one. Something is wrong though. Could also be low air flow or a dirty condenser exterior. Refrigerant could be contaminated...

If the bearings and temp element are good just refill the one you have. Cheaply done and not difficult.

Listen to him Jordan. Posts don't get much better than that. Nicely done Cy...

^ You're gonna need it to power that 80 amp fan relay :)

^ No, it's not. Better keep an eye on it. Better yet start saving...

For R12, no. Full time foaming is usually an indication of low charge. In a fully charged R12 system foaming normally occurs only after the compressor stops and then only briefly. R134 is a different story. It's why those systems typically don't have sight glasses. You live is a tough climate...

Top tap is fine. Funny how those little cans kept shrinking. I remember when they were 16 oz, then 14 oz. Bastards. Makes charging a hassle especially on the larger systems of older cars. It's why I use 30 pounders. Even the dealer's comps are rebuilds. That's how I'd go if I was going to...

Was there some part of check rest pressue you didn't understand? I didn't mention the FPU system because it's not as critical as a loss of RP and many people run without it. Wouldn't hurt to make sure it's working though.

Not a big fan of side taps for several reasons and small cans can be a pain. Still, one should be enough to close the switch depending on volume. Charge until you hear the clutch click. The engine does not have to running for that to happen. Again, there's lots of ways to skin this cat but if...

Sounds as if that "tech" is pretty clueless or maybe you misunderstood something. Enough to satisfy the low pressure cut out. Around 23 psi. You should be able to add that much with the engine off. Might have to heat the can. Or jump the compressor on for a short time. Or charge with liquid...

What Nick said. Toyota uses "residual pressure" but I prefer Bosch terms. Keeping the fuel under pressure raises its boiling point. Same principle as the cooling system. The sole reason is to prevent vapor formation 15-45 minutes or so after shutdown.

Wtf?

Rest pressure...

The no-start and code are unrelated. 52 can not be set unless the engine is running. In fact not only does it have to be running but a bunch of other things also have to happen.

Hmmm. That's a valid and near irrefutable argument. I hate it when that happens...