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I bought that tank (actually bought 2) way back when all cars were 12. It was a lot cheaper then but yeah, there's lot of it still around. Even Ebay always has some although not as many 30 pounders as it once did. Btw many there will sell to anyone without a license as long as the buyer...

Oh well, in that case you're 100% correct. Except for oil there's no greater scam perpetrated upon the automotive public than ignition components. I was referring to other characteristics of precious metal electrodes that are worth the expense.

It runs up to the hard line that goes across the 3000 pipe to the compressor bypass valve, what Toyota calls the air bypass valve. See the other open pipe in the photo? It goes there.

Since you must know better I'll assume that's sarcasm. OP: You're hardly running out of things to check. You're not checking the right things or if you are you're not posting them.

Your expeience is certainly possible with minimal leakage. My R12 system was 15 years old and still working fine when the car left me. The problem is even if everything else remains tight the compressor shaft seal doesn't and with F12 the 142 will escape first and other than doing a complete...

^ Excellent. The azeotropic nature of Freeze 12 makes it an expensive time bomb. It's inability to carry oil after the 142 is lost coupled with the loss of low pressure cut out protection will eventually result in the entire system needing a rebuild. Does it work? Yes, but if one is going to use...

^ Ugh. I knew it wouldn't take long. Bad info...

Meh, just drill and tap the stock bolt and install your own plug, QC, or gage sender...

I assumed the same since it would be the logical first step and there isn't much diagnostic value to doing it otherwise.

^ Smart man. OP: Maybe you should first determine exactly why your system isn't working.

That's why you're getting the code. The circuit is open.

I'll be impressed if you can just get him to set fuel pressure. So far it seems to have fallen on deaf ears...

Buy the best you can afford. And yes, just do as you said. Make sure the can stays upright. If the gage reads more than 30 psi and the clutch hasn't come on stop and find out why. Edit: Make sure you understand how the valves on the gage set work. Remember, they don't control the gages. They...

Annoying ain't it? :)

Sounds like it's working to me. Then again I never felt your symptoms were valve related.

I don't think Nobody is on the right track with the gas thing but it was worth a shot...

Good. Means it wasn't a total loss. OP: If you can't measure fuel pressure pop the plastic top off the fuel damper and look at the little screw on top. As long as there's decent fuel pressure it'll be extended. If it quickly drops after the engine is turned off (or the fuel pump is unjumped...

IGf is very short. Same as the burn time from which it's derived. And when measuring it you might want to use DC coupling there Sparky :)

You actually researched it and didn't ask to be spoon fed. I'm impressed...

You have to define leak. As already noted it's not quite the same. After all lots of people drove lots of miles with blown out stock valves and didn't know it.