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About as useful: http://tinyurl.com/3qbdpgw

I bought the car for its lines, stance, comfort, and technology. It was, as the voice on the cassette claimed, "total sophistication", and that it went on to faithfully serve for nearly a quarter century was confirmation enough. May it rest in peace.

On a GTE it should continue to run and be drive-able to 3000 rpm. On a GE it'll die... edit: He means check codes. DTC is Diagnostic Trouble Code.

While I'm not the Einstein you appear to be (although I am intimately familiar with Bernoulli) it seems to me if oil pressure was an actual problem your engine would have failed by now...

It's a simple matter to check the stock box and filter with a manometer. If the drop is minimal (in my experience it will be) I would use that assuming your other plumbing is up to the task.

Not sure I follow. If you're talking about the difference in size just mold one end to fit the valve. That's what I did. Iirc it was a piece of 3/4" heater hose.

Need to upgrade the air pump first...

In California no. In Arizona maybe but probably not. Depends on the drive cycle.

http://tinyurl.com/3mtvntl That and the next page...

At least the snob can read. He didn't fix it, he rigged it. Yet another example of why most of these cars are a POS. I'm sure the next owner will be pleased...

The ECU is not involved in the factory alarm. Nor does the alarm box itself have any memory, volatile or otherwise. I never had many problems with my stock alarm. It went off a few times when unlocking the hatch but after I repaired the cause that stopped. The only other things I did to it...

A lot of people confuse code behavior with MIL behavior. It's more complex than is generally understood. Put simply, in the case of a 41, not every event of the fault will turn the light on but if it does the light will go out if the problem resolves itself. However, in every case the code will...

Simply because nobody replies doesn't mean nobody knows. I also agree dedicating three digital inputs on a standalone (assuming it has them) for this purpose is more trouble than it's worth.

Had silicone hoses on my car for something like 15 years. Never had a problem and they were still like new when I got rid of it. The trick with this stuff is to get ones with a high silicone content and thick wall but since the two typically go hand in hand it shouldn't be a problem. Don't...

Edit: Oops, that's for code 51. You want to check the VTA part of the TPS. Ohm between VTA and E2 on the TPS like the book says or measure voltage between VTA and E2 on the ECU.

It's most likely the TPS, just like the book says. The randomness could be due to anything from it being set wrong to a bad connection to a worn TPS. Stuff can't be "checked" with a glance. Especially electrical stuff. I've been working with electricity most of my life and have yet to see...

Did you have a question?

Are you talking about Canbus? If so it's not analog.

The shielding needs to be grounded to prevent inductive coupling on the knock sensor signal.