Holy fuck, I'd looooooooove an engine putting out 100hp/CI. That would be ridiculous! 61 CI = 1.0L, at 100hp/CI, you'd be talking 6100hp out of a ONE liter engine. :D:D:D
Here's some more info on the Mk1 though:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_supra#Mark_I_.281978.E2.80.931981.29
Always remember that it's easier to replace when things are apart than when it's all together again, so if you have any nagging or potential maintenance issues, do them now... Rubber always seems to let go at the worst times, huh? ;)
Soon you'll be polishing crap if you keep it up...
Eh, it can be tough keeping one of these in running order man. As much fun as it is daily driving a Supra, if it's unrealistic, YOU need to be realistic. It'll be better in the long run man. ;)
Just gotta deal with a budget, and realize that this may stretch into a long-term project... but...
Not sure about 15's on our cars, I had to run a 15" spare for a few miles, and it was rubbing the brake caliper in the rear. Totally an offset thing, if you were to space it away from the brakes, you could use 15's. I wouldn't recommend them for the front though... just don't look very good on...
Sorry to hear this, but I'm with the other guys here... happened to a friend of mine with an Integra, had an intake WAY too low. Drove through a puddle, sucked up enough water to wreck the motor. Let us know what you find? You know... remove spark plugs, crank engine to TDC for each cylinder...
I've seen impressive things out of either car. Modern generation, I'd pass on either of them, they're both hideous right now. Classic? I'd take an Evo VI, things look mean...
However, after seeing how much a bit of porting and exhaust work opens up a Subaru EJ engine, I'd be rather tempted...
Maybe once. ;)
Hah, now that is a bad way to find inspiration man... but quite entertaining at the same time. Just remember to lock the tool boxes and hide the keys. :p
^No he wasn't. ;)
How did the arcade machine maintenance turn out? I've always wanted to setup my old 32" Sony flatscreen (CRT) and Xbox loaded with emulators into a standup cabinet...
"Pretty sure" and "knocking again" sound pretty similar don't they?
Not to be rude, but bearing sizes and things that need to be that precise are the territory of a machinist. You can do it once and do it right, or take your chances, that's up to you.
I saw that too, and ignoring the obvious poke there, I'll just say that all engines will want to twist when revved. Just part of how a forged steel crank (any crank for that matter) reacts. Unless your mounts were in terrible shape, why would you need that brace?
I know that we're talking about Mitsubishi parts here, but how many Evos do you see in junkyards? :p
Know any machinists? Best way to go about doing something like this. Basically you're just grinding away material from the center of the mounting surface, as the bore of the rotor and the bore...
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