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Look up a place called "Harbor Freight Tools" they got tools for cheap, you can get a compression tester. Fairly simple but with the 7M... youll have to move around the coil packs, just take out a spark plug, screw in the tester in place, disconnect the fuel pump relay & crank the engine, specs...

Not too tight now, itll tend to break the old silicone couplings & a supra as a 1st car... Young people tend to get crazy.. well im 18 now but when i was 16 I had a 90 Celica GT for a 1st car, broke 5 axles & got wrecked & pretty much matured. Take care of the car my friend, you don't value...

This Thread has EPIC WIN written all over it. Personally id use those $1500 for a 2J swap since that is my main goal in life, i had it in mind before i got my MKIII.. but since you have time & money you did this & ITS SIIIIIIICK!!! & your wife... EPIC WIN!! You have any idea of how many girls...

Hey, Do you still have the Apexi Muffler for cheap?

Do knock sensors make the car stall? When I get the 52 code it idles just fine. But when i turn it off & come back a couple minutes later & start it back up it dies immediately or idles at 500 rpms then dies or just idles roughly at 500.

Boost leak? Vac leak? EDIT: Never mind i can't believe my mind slipped the boost gauge & vacuum part... i need a break.. :nono:

I just got pwnd... :: lolsign :: But yea what kind of BOV do you recommend? Ill look into the vacuum lines tomorrow, I ACTUALLY have enough time.

Ok im very curious. I had compressor surge on low boost & after a while it started working again but it surges at higher boost. STOCK turbo, stock psi i believe. What kind of BOV other than stock (by pass valve) do you guys recommend. I want to hear all suggestions :drink1:

Didn't see it on here but if your not good at electrical stuff or wiring at all you can always go with Dr. Tweaks. He makes plug & play harness. You'll have to send the 7MGTE & 2JZGTE harness (or whatever you have) if I'm correct. Haven't done it myself yet but I'm making plans of going 2JZGTE...

Ok heres a pic of the temperature gauge. It doesn't ever go past that. Unless like i said i lose coolant.

Im assuming its the wiring. Like i said before i changed the sensor (got it from Napa), thermostat (Oreilly's), gauge from the cluster (SM Member) & no change. Ill post a picture of the gauge & the temperature it reaches when i get out of work. I don't have a video camera.

Ill try to get a GTE fan clutch & see what happens... Anyone have a working extra GTE fan clutch? :naughty:

Might this be the reason why the car's temperature doesn't rise?

Thank you for clarifying. Everything makes total sense now.

Odd i have the N/A Fan clutch with the 10 blade fan on it (i posted pics on this thread). Been running for a month or more now. Maybe the fan clutch isn't from a 7M but from a truck's?

How does it fail? What i mean is how is the experience? ive never had a car with fan clutch & this is my first. Engine would overheat correct?

Indeed but before 20 degrees hit, it was 70 to 80 degrees & i drove it like i stole it & blew the turbo's cooling hose, It literally split in two, almost as if someone slashed it & i lost a gallon of coolant & the temperature gauge rose to half & i of course got that fixed fast. I was in fact...

Odd... my fan clutch Hub is green & i took off the GE fan & put in the GTE fan & installed the fan shroud on. NO RUBS or clearance problems & DEFINITELY no cooling problems. o.O ill take pictures

Is it?? My engine came with a GE fan (no idea about fan clutch) so i went ahead & bought a fan shroud & GTE fan from a SM member. Well the car would over heat when i just got it & the temp gauge would work fine, it would go to H. After the rebuild the car's temperature gauge goes 3 slashes above...

when i say "el cheapo Honda" i mean a 400 -700 dollar one...