Nope. Dealer here wants 35.99 for each. YES, for EACH. I went personally and he showed me on the computer screen to confirm it was the parts i wanted.
---------- Post added at 09:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:38 PM ----------
I need the silicon piece that goes on the turbo's...
Bought mine with Rod Knock. No BHG YET... maybe in the future :naughty:
If i were you, id go ahead and get an el cheapo Honda. Drive around in that until you get the funds you need & in the mean time study the 7M engine, diagrams, etc. That way when you get the cash you already know what to...
Machine shop is highly recommended. Or you can just buy a Crank Kit from Oreilly's. It comes with the crankshaft & the correct size main bearings & rod bearings already.
Seems like we have a similar problem. The check engine light comes on IF I DO NOT WARM UP ENGINE & its always code 52. The knock sensors are too close to each other, i placed the front one in the wrong place but hadn't had time to move it. Other than that when i drive it a bit hard it idles...
Im running the car 95% with the 3" exhaust being said. NO smoke at all from anywhere. Only when i start the car, it comes out of the muffler well because its like 20 degrees Fahrenheit outside, but then when it gets to operating temperature it stops. ALL CARS AROUND HERE DO THAT. Thanks for the tip!
Im no wheel expert.. so please try to understand me.
Im planning to install 16X7 all around rims with offset of 40MM. Im going to be putting 225/55/R16 tires. What spacer should i use? the 5MM? & if so where do i get longer wheel studs?? because ive tried them on & they defitenately need...
IM sorry man, like i said i don't get much help, he built it, saw it run & i was on my own much & he decides when to help or not & i looked on to Supramania to get help. Im a 18 yr old with lotz of sht to learn.... He decided to help AFTER i went & broke my Celica's drum self adjuster trying 2...
No, oil level is normal. Car doesn't burn any oil. & the compression is good. He told me last night that it could be all the engine degrease coming off since we completely degrease the block & cylinder head. Just went out & checked & the oil smells less of gas & is pretty dark so im going ahead...
All i know is that he set all the ring gaps facing away 90 degrees (something like that) from each other as AllData specifies & would a compression test help?
He didn't help me with that.
---------- Post added at 01:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:02 PM ----------
Uhh. could you be a little more specific of WHY? id really like to know. Piston Ring change??? What would i need to do???
Yes & thank you for clarifying & YES, my old man did that, he got the drill machine & the hone with 3 legs & VROOM away! lol
---------- Post added at 09:27 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:17 AM ----------
well when we first started it up we allowed it to just idle for 3+ hours & ran...
How?? Weve installed NEW Clevite pistons & New Piston Rings. Well after 1100+ miles not so new... but It doesn't make sense. we did what TSRM says & IM NOT BURNING OIL. Just HOW?? o.o
Fuel injector rings? Could be fuel injectors themselves? & im going to check the fuel pump cause i haven't even done that so far. 1100+ miles on a rebuilt engine. 5MM off the block & stock head & Felpro head gasket. NO BHG YET... i tell ya, the old man knows what he does. Hes currently swapping...
The throttle body's plate wasn't sitting at the normal resting point it couldn't go all the way to the resting point because of some rests (something like that) there are couple of studs & nuts & he moved that so that it sits on the spot its suppose to sit. the previous owner had messed with...
Well my old man (:bowdown:)took a look & it was the throttle body, he adjusted here & there & VIOLA! Idle at 700 RPMS & he got the timing pistol like tool & timed it. With 15+++ years of tech experience i don't argue with him. Hes a real "Grumpy Old Man" type So i really don't want to bother him...
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