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I thought I read somewhere on here that someone had made a Ford door hinge pin work... Maybe someone remembers this and will chime in. Edit- Nevermind- I'LL chime in. Here it is- written by a guy I know just up I85...

...and I was "just expectin' it" too. But on this subject- what sensor specifically tells the ecu when to enter closed loop operation?

Two W58 clutch kits. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?170407-W58-ACT-Clutch-Spec-Clutch-Throwout-bearing

Um, yeah, that could be a problem. But I don't know if it would completely explain your issues. If it's the thermotime switch, then the ecu will never know that the engine has reached operating temp, and would continue to run the csi, causing a rich condition. At least I believe this would be...

If you have an externally vented BOV, it will always try to stall out after venting, unless you recirculate it. If you have the Lex AFM, I'nm assuming you have 550's or 560's, yes?

LOL. Good point.

I heard that the GA70's were W58's as well. Everybody makes clutch kits and discs for the W58. PS- Anybody know how much weight saving there is between a GA and MA?

:: facepalm ::

I dont recall who the remanufacturer was, but i got it from advance auto parts

I appreciate your research.

Just to clarify- because I wasn't sure what you were saying @tps at tdc- You checked resistances of the tps and afm as per the tsrm?

Ideally, you'd check the continuity at the ecu, behind the glove box, to insure that the signal makes it all the way.

ok. ps- you used a copper gasket?

PS- If your O2 sensor is bad, it won't affect cold idle. Did you ever check your cam(not ignition) timing? That would affect engine idle both cold and warm. If you do get an afm or tps code, just test them as per the tsrm. It's an easy way to rule them out, or verify them as a culprit.

Check the codes again, see which codes came back, and test those related parts. And yes, you can test the harness connections; just disconnect the ecu plugs, and run a multimeter's test lead from the sensor plug to the ecu end, and read the resistances. Obviously, you'll need to temporarily...

I'll have to do this in a couple months. I think I might start by practicing on a junkyard car, and grabbing a couple spare heater core pipes while I'm trying it.

Well?

Compression test is a last resort? VS. pulling everything to change to a borrowed injector? Oh well, to each his own. Let us know how it goes.

Good question. I just took mine apart as well. My seals are in good shape, but i have to remove them for powdercoating. Have you been able to remove yours without messing them up, Scottie?

...I'm a gigolo at a local retirement home for side work... It don't pay much, but I get alot of decent casseroles.