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Best thing I could find- http://www.nhra.com/stats/indexes_stk.html It says 8.68 1/8 = 13.75 1/4 Congrats on the win. :icon_bigg

I'd give them a call and ask if they'd have an issue with you fixing it or you must send it back to maintain any warranty.

Nice numbers on the dyno, congrats. Now it is time to raise the rev limiter so you can use that power. What turbo is that again, mod list maybe?

I put 8 five gallon cans of C16 thru mine in a row. The wideband still works fine. A couple of cans for a dyno isn't going to kill you. Not enough octane for 28 psi just might though. $65 for a new wideband sensor is chump change compared to new pistons anyway.

Really? The damned things are popping up like weeds around my house. :1zhelp:

The clutch pack can wear out, fairly common on high mileage units. Leave one rear wheel on the ground and see if you can spin the other one with the transmission in neutral and the hand brake off. It should take a significant ammount of effort, if you can do it at all by hand. If it spins...

I have had no oil control problems up to 8k so far. Another 7M I'm doing some work on does just fine @ 7500 as well. No restrictors in in the oil feed to the head on either. IMO, we have trouble getting enough oil to the head, not too much...

That is pretty sweet. So, the timing monitor/control is pretty much a done deal? That is what the 7M has needed the worst forever. You should put a 20 question test to access it in the software though, so only people that know what they are doing can use it, lol.

Please don't try it on stock rods...

I'd say we are just using it when tuning, not leaning on it. Just like using knock sensors and leaning on them are two different things. We have reasoning ability that will tell us when the wideband isn't correct. Tuning with a wideband allows you to analyze the data and decide if you want to...

Regarding the closed loop with a wideband feature: The common wisdom among experienced standalone tuners is that this isn't the best idea to use @ WOT. If the wideband isn't 100% accurate, the fuel will be off. In essence, you are "leaning" on the wideband and just like leaning on the knock...

I noticed the idle speed is alot more touchy and prone to oscilate on a car with a Fidanza (currently tuning the AEM in one) than mine with the stocker. I can't tell the difference at all when driving them.

Come on down Malloy, Qwik is cool and he makes great barbecue too!

:1zhelp: Anthony, you are embarrasing me, lol. It is on Saturday, the first. Malloy, I'll ask around for you. -Brian

The TRD cams give the car an evil, untamed sound @ a choppy 1100 rpm idle. A vacuum canister for the power brakes would be a good idea, especially with an automatic transmission. Also, you may want to consider some studs or a girdle on the camshaft journal caps. I'm shopping for some...

Hi Ian, the Ross box was inside the Flatlander shipping box.

The datalogging is from a third (serial) output that you have to splice in a serial cable to use. I can't get the damned (datalogging) thing to work at all on a friends car. Tried every hyperterminal setting on the laptop too, the AEM instructions are worthless. I'd look elsewhere if datalogging...

Better late than never. It does look nice installed.

Interesting. Let us know how it works out in the end.

I couldn't d/l it for some reason but I must say, if you put up a vid of your car running a slower than expeted time, kudos Ron. Nobody makes a perfect pass the first time out. It takes a pair to put that video up so the kids can see nobody is perfect (+ get another look at your awesome mk3 ;) ).