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For the TEMS question, no clue here...don't have it ;) Block off the brake booster line and the small fitting at the rear of the intake manifold. If this has no effect, unplug the ECU temp sensor on the water neck and start the car.

The idle screw referenced earlier in the thread is on top of the TB on early versions...it should be screwed all the way in. The adjusting screw for the linkage will hold the TB plate open. Might want to read the whole thread next time ;)

Mounting the cooler like that is fine ;)

Re-check your ECU codes...want to make sure nothing is popping up after a drive. Did you check the accordion hose for any leaks/tears?

Figgie was instrumental in having the 1st ATI Damper made for the 7M quite a while ago...his incorporated a crank trigger iirc. I have the drawing around here somewhere. ATI 7M Damper #1 cost significantly more than what they are now. ATI took the resulting R&R and produced an...

Balancing a solid crank pulley is not going to help...it will not solve the problem you face using one. Here's a good explanation as to why you don't want to use a solid crank pulley...they're using BMW engines as the example, but it applies to Supra engines as well...

RK is the loudest at ~2500 RPM.

:runaway: Trust me, I though about it. Seems if I point out anything about the EGR, I'm flaming people ;)

First of all...how about using paragraphs. That was hard as hell to read. (Nice ninja edit BTW) From what I can gather you're saying, higher EGT is better because you want the heat through the turbo. That is just plain wrong...you're asking to blow your motor if you increase EGT for the...

Jeez guys...the manual allows the use of 87 octane. Used it several times myself. It will not cause ping unless you're running at high boost...on a stock CT26, that's above 5000 RPM at least. Teal - I'm not saying it's rod knock, though that's a possibility even though it seems to come & go.

Could be a variety things...valve noise, crank damper bolt loose, rod knock, acessory pulleys, etc. Gas octane is not it though ;)

There's no way you can tell if you "set off the knock sensors" I highly doubt this is a gas/octane issue...a knocking/pinging sound due to detonation is not going happen due to fuel a low RPM cruise.

Good for you...I guess you didn't read this thread as to WHY you don't want to do that.

The idle will be high until the coolant temp gets above ~180 deg. You will not be able to accurately set the timing until idle is at 650 RPM (spec). To set timing, start at step 7: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=IG&P=19 The attachment may help you understand...

Ok...that pretty much rules out vac leaks. I know you checked with a smoke machine (and I believed you), but this confirms it. The engine should die. Check the accordion hose for any leaks/tears. Confirm the ISCV opens on engine shut down. It should hear it click or feel it with your...

No idle...you mean the engine died when you pinched off both hoses?

Like I said, that's normal for a code 51. Tells me the TPS is working and adjusted correctly ;) Ok...leave the TB screw all the way in. Pinch off/block the ISCV hose and PCV hose to the TB (motor running)...you don't want any air flow through either. Tell me what happens.

The check valve is under the ISCV...looks like a little mag wheel. It's there to prevent boost from reversing flow through the ISCV routing...if missing, it should not affect idle. You do need it though ;) Is your ISCV routed the same as stock, to the accordion hose? Code 51 will...

Pull the codes. Then clear the codes by pulling the ECU fuse in the engine bay box for a minute. Start the car and screw the TB screw all the way in again. Recheck the codes after you've run the car. Do you have the stock PCV system installed?

Did you pull the ECU codes? The TB screw should be all the way in...did the engine die when you did it? The coolant line to the ISCV is there to prevent icing issues. It is a factor at high humidity and low OAT.