If there's one thing I've learned here it's that a claim of "I tested something and it's fine" is always a red flag, especially when it comes to this kind of stuff...
Sounds like it's working to me. The line may not sweat with the low RH you have out there but it should be cold. As for vent temp being coldest on low blower that's completely normal. Has to do with that residence time thing you don't believe in :)
Well, low boiling = low cooling. If the TXV bulb isn't cold the valve is going to be open, which begs the question as to why more liquid isn't getting in. What's the suction line temp again? Do you ever see vent temps of less than 45 F?
He's R12.
The only thing I can think of for good low side pressure with high superheat is not enough liquid is making it into the evap. Have you rechecked subcooling?
It's not pressure alone, it's the change in it. When a liquid or gas expands it cools. The TXV "sprays" refrigerant into the evap. There's a large delta P across the valve and as the pressure of the refrigerant decreases across the orifice it cools. Same reason a spray can of something gets cold...
It appears to me it's functioning too. At least the refrigeration portion. How can the low side be 25 psi and the evap not be cold? And if it isn't cold how can the low side be 25 psi? Refrigerants have a pressure/temp relationship you know. It's what makes them refrigerants...
The low side is 25 with a vent temp of 60 and that doesn't strike you as strange? What is the resistance of the evap thermistor under those conditions?
Not far from what Poodles said about the old pencil trick, although I'm puzzled why someone experiencing those sorts of secondary ignition problems would change cap and wires yet ignore the rotor. And of course it wasn't grounding. That theory made no sense.
It is good for that.
OP: Fill a small bowl with water. Sprinkle pepper onto the surface. Add the smallest drop of water-wetter you can to the center of the bowl and watch what happens. Repeat with a 50/50 mix of water and coolant. Decide for yourself in which fluid the product works best...
It's a surfactant. Surfactants work on water, not glycol, and its been known to slime up in a mix. Since it's made to run in straight water it has good anti-corrosion properties though. Not as good as new coolant but a quickie way to freshen the mix up until you get around to changing it.
I stand corrected on the fan. You're right, I should have known better :)
I feel for ya. It sucks to have gone through all that and end up no better off. There's always the performance test in the TSRM. That should put to rest whether it's cooling as designed based on the test conditions but...
I'm sure lots of owners have/had adequate AC performance in such climates. The car was after all the company's flagship. I've never had mine in PHX but summer in Vegas and the Mojave was never a problem nor was climbing the Sierras.
I forget, does the car have electric fans or the stock...
In 22 years I was stopped once, when I first bought the car. Since I was let go with a warning and based on the comments he made I suspect he just wanted to look at it. I've also noticed the older I got the friendlier cops became. Funny how that works...
I would highly recommend against 1) believing what you read on bottles and 2) listening to the voices in your head.
OCI generally depends on service conditions. In severe service (short trips, stop and go, etc) I'd change that particular oil (a Group IV by definition) every 5-6k. For normal...
That's a terrible waste of quality PAO lubricant. You're not doing your engine or wallet any favors by changing it so often. I'm unsure why you'd think oil life would decrease power. If anything it'd slightly increase it due to reduced pumping losses caused by shearing.
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