^ Thank you. I had mentioned in another thread that retrofit bulletin was out there somewhere but I'd lost track of it. Copy saved.
Cy: Stock runs at 70% while the truck clutch is capable of running to 90%.
What Cy said.
Although there's a lot more to it Reg Riemer's "explanation" is lifted word for word from one of the factory technical manuals. I know because it's one of a half dozen TCCS books I have in my library. It happens to be the same manual the information in post #19 came from.
I've said it before: there's a certain amount of irony when considering those who typically yank this stuff off are the ones who will live with the results longest.
Rollus: Sorry Mon-sewer, some of your post makes no sense and the rest is technically incorrect.
Blackdawg: Sticking to the...
God how I love these EGR threads.
You know, I'm far from an eco-nazi but technical arguments aside why is it nobody ever mentions the moral, ethical, and legal issues about removing the thing from street cars. Not only are those doing it violating federal law but they're also defeating a...
Yeah, IPA is isopropanol but that 91% stuff will do.
Highly doubtful you'll find small cans of 12 retail. Most places even quit carrying the 30s. If all else fails there's ebay. Best to get an extra can just in case. Also gonna need a top tap.
Oil sounds about right. Better to go a bit...
^ Beer first. A TB gasket change is a two beer job :)
Old mechanic's trick: place gasket material on part and tap lightly around sheet with ball peen or screwdriver handle to imprint. Tear/cut as needed. Crude, but effective...
Just go by weight and tweak it for no bubbles or coldest suction line/vent temp. Superheat and subcooling are useful for diagnosing but for charging they work best on stationary systems.
As amusing as this guy was (gotta love the photo) his procedure is adequate...
You can charge by weight and get it close. Charging by superheat gets closer or, since it's a TXV system, you can charge by subcooling and get it dead on. That said simply putting in the proper number of cans (use the weight on the can) and topping off until there's no bubbles should be good...
Flushing the lines is good. You want to get rid of anything that may have clogged something and may do so again. A busted desiccant bag in the R/D or something from an earlier compressor blow up for example.
Solvent and air is fine. Just be sure everything is dry and pull a good vacuum on the...
Usually people check codes a bit more recently before asking for help :icon_razz
Has to be upstream of the connection where the signal splits. Or it could still be the speedo. Assuming you still have cruise control you can use its diagnostics to check the speed sensor further. Otherwise...
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