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The near normal subcooling indicates a starved evap. New R/D is wise. I'd also flush the system while you have it apart. No idea about the O rings...

Fwiw you can't have a bad speedo sensor and not have an engine code. That you replaced the speedo without joy also indicates this. Sounds more like a wiring problem. The rpm cycling sounds like rpm cut. Check for code 51 in diag mode with the gas pedal pressed. If you don't get it that's...

155 eh? Now you know why pilots fret about long taxi times and why most tire failures occur on the departure roll. Assuming you're not shy on refrigerant and it's not contaminated that all indicates an evap starved of refrigerant. Bad TXV, restriction in the liquid line, etc.

As IJ would say, it's not just a river in Egypt...

The Raytek isn't the best idea but if you're going to use it be mindful of emissivity. If required use a black tape where measurements are taken. I'd use the T/C or at least compare the two. Driving has never been needed. Just run the car at fast idle with the windows open, AC @ 65, blower on...

I didn't see where he checked subcooling. That would help in determining if bad metering is the cause.

One side is a 37 degree flared compression fitting while the other is pipe thread. Does that help? It should...

That it's easier said than done is exactly why I didn't suggest it. As far as the clutch failing to disengage I suppose that's possible. The evap thermistor or AC amplifier would have to fail though. Pretty unlikely. Besides, even of that were to happen it can't be the root cause of your problem.

Just the VSV, the function of which is to turn the EGR off.

Of course the evap could be at fault. Sounds more TXV though. Is the sensing bulb in the right place and properly insulated? Have you posted this issue on any of the AC forums? Recovery and recharge isn't a big deal. Either buy a used recovery system or research building one. Lots of people do...

Improper refrigerant metering or a restriction after the TXV. No matter how much you want to dance around it the evap has to come out. Do it yourself and it won't be so bad. Stop fussing over the meter. Odds are there's nothing wrong with it. Check that Type K with an ice/salt bath and boiling...

You're welcome. Extra zeros aside it would've been more obvious without the misplaced commas...

The meter is electronically cold junction compensated. Not to state the obvious but it has nothing to do with low side pressure. If you're going to overly anal-lize something try focusing on that...

Those relays come with an anti-flyback harness. Counter emf suppression. In other words it's not a resistor and even if it was it wouldn't cause a delay.

You're connected to the greatest source of information civilization has ever known and you have to ask? It's an idiom. A very common one.

I mean rather than cut the connector off the harness cut the wires off the resistor box and tie them together. Course, that'll make the box junk. It's six of one half dozen of the other. Me, I'd buy a new connector with pins and wire it so I could go back but something tells me you're not going...

Yep. You may want to do it using the box connector though. That way you won't bitch up the harness...

The answer is yes, connect the wires together.

610,000 isn't many miles?

Well, you can always check timing.