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Yeah, the amp is a pain to get at. When I said power side I meant all the things you mentioned. The amp needs all its inputs satisfied to send a signal to the ECU for code and idle up. Power and ground must be present, the dual pressure switch must be closed, the coolant over-temp switch not...

Yes, you should get a 51 with the TPS unplugged but it's easier just to press the gas pedal down. If you don't get the code on the SM verify by using the MIL because SM's have been known to lie or not put the system in diag mode. If pin 14 is low it sounds like the CC head is working. I assume...

No 51 means either the turn-on signal isn't leaving the CC head (pin 14 on connector D) or the AC amp isn't working. I'm guessing the engine doesn't idle up either. You get a 51 when doing the TPS check right?

The time period after a prior shutdown wasn't mentioned but if it's 15-60 minutes rest pressure holding should be checked.

Hammer on the block? Crack me up. The ECU monitors the health of the sensors and wiring by listening for normal ignition events. Therefore a signal will be present just from running the engine. If the engine is off a tap on the manifold will do. A scope would be the best thing to use. Edit: I...

Iirc the plug is 18 mm. Uses a fiber or copper crush gasket. Can't remember for sure though because for 20 years I used one of these: http://www.fumotousa.com/

Actually you're somewhat on the right track although I'd be careful about pressuring it too much. I used to vapor clean them with Freon TF. They can often be cleaned with refrigerant but you risk busting them. In your case turn the can upside down...most dusters are filled with R-134a. None of...

Yeah, there's several things left out of the later books. Shame Toyota decided to do that. The resistance test is good but nothing beats actually seeing the thing output a correct signal. People seem to have lots of problems with the AFM. Even those who know better than to clean it. I...

The 87 TSRM has that test. Dunno about later ones. The key to doing it is (since you're measuring junctions) to remember polarity. That's what the arrows mean. It's still not a great method though. Much better is on the car (or off it ) using frequency. My car left me with its original...

I set it as low as possible while still reliably closing IDL. It typically ends up around 150 mv although setting the TPS by the book usually causes it to be a little higher. It varies from car to car.

The closed throttle voltage is a tad high but won't cause any problems. The WOT value is normal. Why do you even care if the car runs well?

Apples to oranges. The screws are not the same. There's a reason that happens...

It's a little spendy though: http://tinyurl.com/4hjkctn

That's how I read it. Problem occurs after boost, not during. Which brings me back to post # 2. Edit: You could just hook the FPR directly to the manifold (thus bypassing the VSV) and see what happens. Not much will change me thinks...

I'm familiar with how it works. Perhaps the OP should clarify exactly what his symptom is. And stop calling me Shirley ;)

In theory I don't see how Kai. There's no failure mode of either VSV that would cause his symptom, at least as I understand it. Feel free to offer an alternate hypothesis in case I'm overlooking something.

They're three-way solenoids. Neither of them can be responsible for your symptom.

No guns, no fun:icon_razz

Power windows here: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=094 The 30 amp power CB is located in RB 5 (left kick panel) as is the power main relay: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=22 If it's tripped insert something into the...

Apparently you missed the threads where the parameters required to set this code are mentioned, that octane/knock has nothing to do with it, and that it's the only code to keep the MIL on until the key is cycled. Put another way your sensors and/or wiring are bad...