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Yes and yes.

On a GTE code 32 is the HAC sensor. 51 can be the TPS, NSS, or AC. It's usually the TPS.

Being a leg man all I can say is...damn. 90's Prizm/Corolla. This is one should work: http://tinyurl.com/3sxc9wj Toss the bracket it comes with, flip the valve over, then install the bracket and actuating lever from the old one. The ports are slightly larger so carefully push the hoses on...

It's probably that 10-12 psi of vacuum...

It's a cold start injector, not a cold idle injector...

Without going into detail certain parameters must be met before 52 sets. Speed, time, rpm, stuff like that. Just fix the wiring and you should be fine. The 21 is because there's no current flowing through the O2 sensor's heater. Not a big deal (the sensor still works when hot) but it should...

Hmmm. Since I don't see it on their site I guess they no longer make the bottled anti-fog stuff. I have some and it works pretty well. I tend to use it less on cars and more on other things though.

I wish some girl would blow my head...

You know RainX makes different products right? One specifically for use as anti-fog?

Interesting you should point that out Dave. From reading posts I sometimes wonder how many here really understand the dynamics between thermostat, radiator and fan (electric or not) and the interaction of multiple setpoints. At times some seem confused about what each component even does.

More like me not arguing with him. I don't much argue with anyone these days. Especially those who don't know what they don't know. Such people are difficult to reach. If they feel like I've given them bad info they can research it further themselves. In fact I'd prefer they do that. That said...

The other flaws in your idea aside the radiator is isolated for a reason.

As I stated in post #21 the coolant input to the amplifier can't be low (grounded) or the clutch will be inhibited. The sensor is nothing more than a single pole normally open switch. With the connector unplugged ohm between the switch and ground. If there's continuity replace it.

Dunno what to say guy. You have to probe each pin with your meter until you find what's keeping it off. Or you could try this: 1) Unplug both connectors on the CC 2) Supply 12 volts to the 10 amp AC fuse. Easiest way to do that is to remove the nearby heater relay and jumper pins 5 and 4. The...

No idea. Could be anything from loss of fuel, spark, bad crank angle sensor, wiring, you name it. A bad battery shouldn't cause it unless you had a ton of load on the electrical system but it's not good to have for lots of other reasons.

The code was probably old. A 22 will not stop the engine. It will cause the ECU to assume the coolant temperature is normal (hot). Therefore the engine will run normally when hot but not when cold.

Well, it appears the amp needs a ground on pin 2 to operate. This is in conflict with the online TSRM. The 87 book has even more errors. The amp's logic also prevent idle-up/code generation (as well as clutch operation) if the coolant temp input is low (coolant too hot), if the dual pressure...

Sorry, I meant fuel rest pressure. However now that you've clarified the symptom it's unlikely to be the problem.

Wait, are you saying the button didn't work before? As in didn't light up? If true that's not a minor detail. Remember, the blower must be on for the amp to function but since you said the 10 amp fuse has power I assume it's working. It sounds like the CC head or one of the inputs to it eg...

Jumping the pressure switches won't help if the amp isn't working or not receiving the CC signal. They need to be closed though because they not only supply power to the clutch but also input to the amp. I'm not sure about something however. Been a long time since I played with this stuff...