I say this in every thread that concerns a no-start situation, where the cps has been removed:
Even though you put it in as per the tsrm, it is very easy to be off one tooth, so i suggest the following; remove the adjustment bolt, and rotate the cps about a 1/4 inch past normal adjustment range...
I know, I know. I had the spool speed too slow, I found out. You'll be pleased to know that I have removed the mount bracket, as It causes the entire assembly to sit right where the IC pipe has to go. So instead, I made a tiny mount plate with threaded holes, and it will be mounted right against...
Kinda like this-
Straight shot. I wanted to minimize bends and turns.
I plan to relocate the power steering resevoir to the front side of the rad, so I don't think that space will be an issue.
I would contact Topline. They include the lockrings for the piston pins with their piston sets, so either they make them, or they have a supplier.
http://www.toplineauto.com/index.asp
Otherwise, I'd try to see if any other toyotas use the same size lock rings.
Hope that helps.
No? Nobody likes electrical? Well, that's fair. After all, this is stage 2-drivetrain, and here I am, cheating with interior stuff.
Ok, back to the engine then. Today, I received my AN-10 radiused, O-ring oil fittings, and so I worked on my oil cooler circuit.
Made a mount for the remote...
Decided to avoid getting greasy today, so i played with the gauge cluster.
I wanted to install a warning light for low oil pressure, so i got started.
Warning horn, led socket, and led with resistor.
Cluster open, with needles removed.
Small access hole through the back.
Small hole drilled...
Not to be negative, but rodnkock does tend to be quieter when the motor's cold, and louder when it warms up.
I was thinking that it could also be a very large valve shim clearance or two, but that would be very very gradual, not something you'd suddenly notice.
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