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I'm curious: what would be your uneducated guess?

You should do what makes you comfortable. I understand my view on this will be controversial but that how I feel. As long as the fasteners are installed correctly there should be no need for it and my experience has borne that out. Does ARP even say do it? Last time I checked they said to...

No, I don't. Do OEMs do it? Ever seen a shop make customers bring their cars back to do it?

As long as they haven't been over-torqued before, yes. Btw I don't retorque. Never have on any of the engines I've built. Zero problems. I'm not surprised either.

It "happens" all the time here. What really amazes me though is when cars get fixed after something that couldn't possibly have had anything to do with the problem gets worked on.

There's washer thingy and a flanged nut that holds it on. Odd the EPC doesn't show it. Goes on the side the bearing is inserted into. The tensioning bolt enters on the closed side ie; the idler is on backwards in the second pic. Look here: http://tinyurl.com/d6pe88n Anyway, you want...

Hmmm. I've been ignoring your posts even though you obviously haven't much of a clue. You can't write worth crap either. OP: Use what you want. Your car, your money, your life. Fwiw I'm 608 Universal certified and did a lot of commercial HVAC in a former life. Unlike the joke 609 MVAC...

All flavors of 12a are illegal to use, flammable, HC refrigerants. Don't get caught, have a fire, or expect any AC shop to touch your car. Other than that they work fairly well. Then again so does propane and butane. The problem with Freeze 12 in a nutshell is that unless the oil is changed...

^ Better to just put 100% 134 in it (Freeze 12 is 80% 134). That way you won't have to rebuild the entire system down the road...

Well, since you did them recently, did them "right", and what was done has nothing to do with the hydraulic portion of the brakes, what you did can't possibly have anything to do with this now can it?

If you're that broke with a leaky system might as well use canned air dusters or airsoft/air horn propellant. It's usually tetrafluoroethane, sold cheaper, and will work fine...

I do not see how that could be the case since the warning systems aren't interconnected and ABS has it's own MIL.

They just pull off. Easier if you have the actual tool made for it. Why would you want to remove them? Didn't the shop put new ones in?

^ This. OP, take some advice that'll serve you well throughout life: cut your losses...

What 3p said. The ECU opens a window, called the knock gate, where it listens. The freq is 7 khz which is correct for inline sixes. And all I'll say about that big post is there's a huge amount of irony in the signature...

1.21 gigaohms...

The OP's understanding is lacking. Try adding processing after the word signal...

What we have here....

Meh, try driving one for almost 25 years. It got old after about 15. It was the most reliable car I've ever had though.

Crack me up. So many experts, so little time...