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Yes, you need a rear sump pickup. One off of a 1JZ or 2JZ will work. Yes, you can use the Aristo Hydro fan, if you have all of the pieces.

I find that if you put some penetrating lube on on the base of the stud, and NONE on the nut, you can remove the nut and stud as one.

You just don't go often enough. Here in Calgary, they get picked over in like 2 days. The alberta Supra club tend to post when they pop up, and everyone rushes out to pick them over :) I went yesterday, and there were FIVE MKIIs.No MKIIIs at that time though.

Driving RHD is not that different from driving LHD. Anybody who tells you it's dangerous, and difficult, and crap like that has obviously never tried to drive a RHD vehicle for a day or two. Things to look out for that I've found: 1. Lane position. If youre used to driving a LHD vehicle...

Maybe you pulled off a cam position sensor wire when you changed the injectors?

You guys are all wimps. Try removing 2JZ stock twins! I've removed the stock twins 3 times on my 1JZ, twice with the motor in the car. Never again. It takes less time to pull the motor, and take the turbos off. Hell, you can pull it half way out with the harness still connected and it takes...

Was yours from Japan? Or was it an export model to Italy?

The 22R-TE uses dish pistons to drop the compression for the turbo. IIRC, turbo is 8.5:1, and N/A is 9.3:1 Rebuild kits for the motor can be had for CHEAP on Ebay.

Yeah, put it back on the engine stand, and bolt the four bolts into the upper part of the block. ;) /thread

For your fronts, look into an amp around 2x50w to 2x100w, somewhere in that range. You definitely don't need 100w for your fronts, but it's future-proofing, and you can always turn down the gains. Yes, any decent head unit will have a crossover built-in. For example, any midrange pioneer...

It's not a check valve on teh intake, it's a filter. How could the MAP sensor see vacuum AND boost if it was a check valve?

No, the R model, like all Japanese turbo Supras, came with a 4.10 torsen rear end. As for the sway bars, they ARE beefier then stock ones, IIRC they're the same as the Turbo A bars. I'm not sure if they're solid, but I use mine as a jacking point, and it hasn't kinked.

From what I remember, the compressors are not entierly the same, but you can swap the components over to make them the same. I think it has to do with the 1JZ compressor being for R12, and the 2JZ compressor being for R134A

I'm almost certain the plastic centered coil plug are a re-design. I picked some up for a MKIV to put on my 1JZ, and they had the centers in them.

Ok, reasons WHY you need a smaller exhaust on an NA, and bigger on a turbo: Air has mass, and thus, momentum. It requires energy to get it moving. With a smaller diameter exhaust, the velocity is increased. Due to teh increased velocity, the exhaust doesn't have time to stop moving before the...

Electric sander and some rust converter. For the deep parts, get a grinder

Yes, it's plug and play.

Wow, lots to answer. Ok, first, your front speakers, they're not THAT bad. There are definitely a few things you can do to make them sound better before you invest in some more expensive ones. First, they need to be crossed over properly. This is what a "Bass Blocker" is, a highpas crossover...

Nuh uh. Fast and Furious taught me it's used for upshifting :icon_razz

Edit: Turbofreak beat me to it. I'fe heard of that term, but not in the context you put it. I've heard of clutch kicking in drifting. When going into a corner, push the clutch in, then let it up quickly. This will kick the tires out, initiating a drift. Anybody who's driven a RWD 5-speed on...