The one with the "foam" is positive. The factory attach point for the battery negative is a tapped hole to the rear of the AC compressor bracket. An alternate location is the rearmost bracket attach bolt. If there's any question hvyman's advice is valid and should be taken.
The OP is incapable of doing that kind of work. It's why I haven't bothered to try and help him. Have at it though.
Btw you guys know certain things are supposed to "fade away" when cranking right? It's deliberate on most cars. He needs to be more specific.
Well, that's what I assumed you were talking about all along but it still doesn't matter. Unless there was some indirect correlation like bumping something or slamming the hood it had nothing to do with being able to crank the engine. It's as simple as that.
You should have the plugs out too. And don't pull the injectors. They're highly unlikely to be the problem. And deal with the PS issue before you trash the thing because, you know, damn...
Well, you have no problem admitting you're wrong as long as you know you're wrong. The problem happens when you don't know and that's where we still are. However you're definitely right about MAF being more accurate than MAP at measuring flow since the second one doesn't. No point in arguing...
Ok, my bad on the Maft/TPS thing. Wasn't aware they could do that. I only know about the AFM code. Is the Maft supplying a TPS signal during cranking? That would not be good.
Is fuel rest pressure holding? Fwiw unplugging the coolant sensor equals a hot engine so if it starts OK cold it's...
Assuming timing, spark, and cranking vacuum are OK hard starts are almost always mixture related. Do you know what it is? If not try making it both ways to see which causes improvement then go from there. And fix the TPS code. It's not from the Maft.
Look at connector "Y":
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=52
Assuming it's the same as the 7M pin 1 would be blue. The other two don't matter.
Course, to know for sure you'd have to meter them.
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