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Meh, you could have bought three bad used ones. So much cheaper and easier. After all devices with diaphragms, especially those with high cyclic rates, last forever...

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291410/catalog.aspx?F=2501&P=1

To have the functionality it provides? Functionality you paid for? To keep the car original? To preserve its status as a flagship of its time? To have the satisfaction of fixing the problem right? To halt the incremental turning of yet another of these cars into a POS? I dunno, you tell us...

84903 SW, door un-lock: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291410/catalog.aspx?F=8401&P=4 The unlock input needs to go low before the trigger does. I forget if the switches are sequenced or if the lock controller does the timing. Iirc it's the latter.

Takes away from the sound of the car. That's pretty funny. Anyway, it's only loud when fully engaged. Might want to test it...

This. Like all service manuals it's written for people who already have the required skills. It's not meant to be a true DIY tool.

Lmao @ a few months...

Tell me about it. It's sad to see this much fail in the Tech Section.

Big snike! She's ah big bugga!

Hopefully his reading comprehension is better than his color vision...

Appears you missed the point: some used parts come with a much higher risk of not working, or not lasting, than others.

Codes?

Wtf does it say in post #4? Did you even read it?

If one thinks about it one will come to realize some parts should not be bought used.

You're confusing the PPS solenoid with the idle up valve. The idle up valve is on the PS pump: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=SR&P=39

^ That that would prevent arming. The other method leaves the car protected.

Although mine always worked flawlessly I understand the stock system can be finicky when certain switches wear. As for the proper way of resetting once triggered it's as simple as reading the owner's manual.

From what I read here many still don't. I'm amazed at the gyrations some think they need to go through for resetting.

Depends on where you install the sensors but either at the computer or in the foot wells works. For alarming the fuel door use the hatch trigger. Best to use high quality butt splices (eg, PIDG) crimped with the proper tooling but solder (ugh) will do. Stay away from IDC.

Fix the cancel switch in the driver's door lock mechanism. Until you get around to doing that cancel the alarm using the pax door or hatch.