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If it whines, first try changng the fluid. If that doesn't help, go to the junkyard.

teflon tape? :dunno:

Wait, it runs for a few seconds when you start and then dies? Is it always the exact same amount of time before it dies, regardless if you're letting it idle, or revving it? If so, I can guarantee you that the fuel pump elay to switch from 6 to 12 volts has gone bad. What happens, is you...

Get a bosch -044 :) MKIV TT pump is also a drop-in upgrade.

22Rs are unstoppable. I've seen them still run after throwing rods through the block. I've also never seen one that didn't leak oil :). Mine goes through like a litre a month, sometimes more. I never have to change the oil, it does it for me.

Yes, the 4A-GE and 1(2)JZ-GTE use the same flywheel bolts. I believe teh 7M can use them too, you just need less bolts. Horsepowerfreaks has flywheel bolts on sale right now. I think it's $37 for a set.

oh good, I'm not teh only one who's broken those off. You can get them in the junkyard too. They're on every car Toyota has made with power steering in like the last 25 years.

I think it's a filter for one of teh ignitor signals, but I'm just pulling that out of my ass.

Yeah, a full set of main and rod bolts is like $250. I just ordered a set up or my 2JZ :)

Things look good!!!!!! I'm not completely finished as I only had an hour to work on it today, but none of the rod bearings are spun, and the three crank bearings I've looked at were good too. Only 4 main bearings left to check and clearance, but I have a good feeling that they will be good...

Yeah, thanks for the good luck :) What I did was unbolt the motor mounts, and my intake piping. Then, I clipped my engine hoist onto the front hook of the motor, and used it to pull the motor up. The front of the motor ended up moving up about 2 inches. This gave me enough clearance to unbolt...

Don't start a pilitical discussion in here, too, or it'll have to be moved ;)

Thank you SO much!

Seeing as how you're just replacing them anyways, use some pliers to crack the old connectors in half, making sure not to damage the metal sockets on the ends of the wires, pull out the wires, insert the wires into the new clips, and insert the white plastic locking piece. Done. Edit: I didn't...

a USDM 2JZ has a pressure sensor too, and it works.

Taking off the crank pulley, do you have the motor in the car still? If so, put a breaker bar on the bolt, rest the handle on the ground, and crank the motor with the starter a few times. It'll break the bolt loose. As for a special pulley removal tool: :) I also cut a small metal plate...

Do you understand what's happening to your timing tables when you do that? Just a warning to people using the SAFC and a FCD. What you're doing is clamping the MAP signal to the ECU just below cut. The stock ECU reads the MAP signal to adjust timing maps. What this means is your timing will be...

Open the bottom of the fuse box up, and see if one of the wires fell off there.

Well, I managed the impossible. I pulled teh oil pan off without removing anything else from the car! Anyways, I now have access to the whole bottom end. I'll inspect it tomorrow to see if any of the bearings have spun. I hope they didn't. If not, some new bearings, and it'll be good to go.