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Yeah i dont think that any of those plugs would keep you from starting. Im guessing that the clear plug in the engine bay goes to the tranny abs sensor.

Aaaaannnnddd there it is. Most likely suspect is one of the disabling attempts that the previous owner did.

Looks like the same thing to me, too.

My car has a long initial crank time, but not just when it's hot. I suspect my cheap Ebay fuel pressure regulator, so I bought this to install this week.

Replacing a fuel pump is a two hour job, provided the tank is nearly empty, and you don't break anything along the way. Plus, it makes it easy to replace the fuel filter, which DOES get clogged.

Thanks for posting all of this- I'll have to compare to mine tomorrow.

You mean that you're hitting fuel cut, Or you just have a code stored? What psi boost are you hitting?

Glad you got it figured out.

Nah, you're not alone.

Yes, please post up your bin. Im still trying to figure mine out. :)

Edit- not sure i a leaking bpv would cause this because the air is pre throttlebody, either way. I'd check the iacv.

Well, as long as fuel pressure is good and injector size was entered correctly, id have to say that you have a boost leak.

Ebay coils. ~$75 for all 6.

And no other possible sources of air improperly entering the manifold? I know you checked the throttle linkage, but is there any chance of binding at the throttle plate shaft itself?

I don't think that boost is too far off the mark, though. Maybe a max of 16psi. But my understanding is that if you can squeeze ~12psi out of a stock setup, you should be able to bump it up about 25% when using 550 injectors. Have you tried the frequency clamp? Also, are you running in suck...

I used to have a problem with my floor mat, that when I went WOT, the pedal would get stuck under the front edge of the mat, and my car would bounce off redline. Dunno if that's a possibility in your case. Otherwise, I can't imagine the car being able to rev above 3000 without some sort of...

Ok, cool. As for setting mainscale to 20, makes no sense to me It tells the ecu that more air is flowing into the motor(higher frequency, closer to fuel cut point), and to step up fuel flow. When you install larger injectors, you do the opposite, and tell the car that less air is flow, so that...

Yup. And that vac nipple you see at the front of the intake is what connects to one end of that hard line in your pic. The other end goes into the idle-up valve on top of your PS pump.

I know that my fuel cut raised when I went to 560's. Did you set the proper injector size into the maft? (I assume that you did). You *can* set a frequency clamp, but I never had any luck with that.

Why is your mainscale set to 20 on factory injectors? What firmware version are you on? What DTC codes are displayed? Boost ctrl TPS start is set to 3.7V? Does your tps even get to 3.7V?