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To me, it sounds like idle fuel cut. I think the engine is trying to rev too high when the TPS indicates the throttle plate is closed, so the computer cuts fuel in response. I would do a couple things: First clean the throttle body and plate to make sure it's not being held open by carbon, then...

Please organize your information better, it's very jumbled and hard to understand. Please use this template to re-write the information so it's easy to interpret: 1-Original problem (include any mods that were done) 2-Codes in computer 3-Diagnostic tests done 4-Results or testing 5-What...

Poodles is right when it comes to the way *most* techs look at a repair job. It's sad, but true. Reydio also hit it on the head. At my shop, there's 3 guys in particular who just don't give a crap about what they're doing, and it shows in their work. There are also 2/3 guys who do everything...

Like IJ said, the rear arms need to be fixed for it to control the body flex, otherwise it'll just pivot with the body. Here's a picture of a Toyota Corolla GTS with a TRD 3-point strut bar, that's what needs to happen. Very nice looking, though! Good job

Fluid should not be leaking past the rear seal on the master, so you should replace the clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder, and flush all the old fluid out. Start with known faults and go from there. Might not fix the chatter, but it's leaking and that's bad.

The seals are replaceable, but it is not an easy job to do. That's why most shops recommend reman units. Also, you usually get a warranty with a reman rack, too.

Same here, I found a freshly rebuilt 5MGE/trans on CL that came with a house this guy just bought. He didn't know exactly what it was, he just knew that it was for a Supra. I was hoping for a 7M turbo, but it was still a nice find. He eventually sold it for 150 (actually gave me $20 for...

I found a $20 bill under my rear hatch cover, but what's cool about it is that it paid for the new rear hatch cover and lunch that day! I've also found several 8, 10, 12, and 14mm sockets all around the car, so Ive got lots of spares. I'm sure I'll find more as I continue to tear everything...

I just talked with the PO of my car not 5 hours ago! He's shocked that I'm spending as much money on the car as I am. Nice guy, just couldn't afford another 7M BHG, and needed a running car.

Emilio- I'm in for the meet, but I can't be sure that I'll be showing up in a Supra... Funky- DG motors (in St. Louis Park) is my machine shop. They've done engines for a couple people I know and the engines all seem to be holding up well.

I should be able to go, and if I'm lucky I'll even have a Supra to drive! If not, you all get to hate on my dd.

This look good enough?

Well done, now that's a great beater! Good luck with the swapping!

Update time! I stopped by the machine shop to check out the progress on my engine, and it's almost done! ALso saw a cool head job being done there, too cut up 3 Nissan skyline (RB26DETT) heads and pin them back together, all in the name of ultimate flow! Pretty cool. So, I've been cleaning...

Hey, pefect timing! Now you just gotta go get a safc and turbocharge that sucker! ;) 3SFE-T FTW! lol

So you have no spark then? If you don't know, check for it. If you tapped into the distributor wires with scotch-lock style connectors, make sure the vehicle's wire wasn't broken, and completely remove the tach from the vehicle. If it's already all the way out, check for injector pulse when...

That distributor is super easy to work with. No timing adjustments at all (no adj. slot, just a hole), so don't shy away form removing it. There's also a slot in the cam for lining up, so no gears to deal with! Very fool-proof design, just don't force it in. It should slide in nicely. Good luck!

The injectors will be bigger, but the main thing you need to know if the coils are compatible with the computer. To check for that, just use a volt-ohm meter on the ohm scale and check one injector of each. It will be either ~14ohms for a high resistance one, or ~2ohms for a low resistance one...

Connector #1- definitely a main ECU ground wire, usually bolts to the intake manifold. Connector #2- I just went outside and checked my supra (91 Turbo 5-speed w/tems), and I have the same connector just sitting there next to the ignitor, unused. I'm guessing it's wiring they ran in case of a...

If your fuel pump was going out, I would expect your top end to suffer, since that's when demand on the pump is greatest. I would start with new plugs and wires, but then look at the plugs and see what they look like *keep them in order so you can refer back to them later*. If one or two looks...