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Far different than a T04E housing ;) You are starting to blow hot at ~16 psi on a CT26 housing. Not even close to the T04E housing map you posted.

That TPS is similar to stock...wouldn't surprise me if it has the same type issue. Test at the ECU like I said above and you'll know.

Did you flush the block/head oil passages out after they were machined and before putting the head back on? No FPIG on the top of the timing cover = oil leak ;)

Well...I didn't respond because I could barely read it. This smartass response just validated that decision, regardless of your edit in post #1. You want answers...make what you're trying to say clear. An attitude when you are corrected will get you absolutely nowhere.

Need to fix the code 11...it masks all other codes when it is present. Start by cleaning the ECU grounds at the intake manifold. If this is an old TPS, they develop a "flat spot" right at that RPM range. The TB will open on acceleration, but the ECU doesn't know to add fuel or it adds fuel...

Either that or the lower intake runner flange is warped. The gasket "should" have a raised o-ring like sealing surface on both sides around that hole. If not, go to the dealer and get a new one. Unfortunately, you are going to need to remove the intake to fix it. :( Check the flange...

That is the coolant feel line from the block to the ISCV and TB. Did you use a new gasket between the head and lower intake runners?

I'd like to know the answer to this ^^^ as well. If you pull the pistons, that makes a re-ring and cylinder hone mandatory. Check all crank clearances, including thrust washers. That timing belt explains the noise you were hearing ;) You either somehow installed the crank timing belt...

Any ECU codes? Is this happening at ~25-30% throttle at cruise?

The TPS has two functions: 1) Signal the ECU when the TB plate is closed (IDL) 2) Determine TB plate opening angle to the ECU (VTA) IDL is a simple switch...it's open or it's closed. Closed puts the ECU in idle mode. The ECU works on voltage not resistance...in the case of the TPS, 5...

Suggest you go to a dyno if you go stand alone. I have not went to the AEM...other issues have taken priority (and are sucking down $$$) over Supra upgrades for a while now. What got rid of the code 51? Check the AFM connector and clean. Code 43 is the starter signal.

The system shows post and edit times...11 minutes was fast. But whatever. Rick - it's easy to have that button pushed and not pay attention to it. Half the time I tell a guy to check it and guess what? It fixes the code 51 "problem". Sounds like you know what you're doing, so I'll...

You used a chopstick to check it? (that was awfully fast) If the AC button is depressed, it will throw a code 51...doesn't matter if the AC is working or not. Foot on the gas will also always cause a code 51...the car does not have to be running to check it. Code 51 is a real time code...it...

When you check for the code 51, make sure you foot is not on the gas and the AC button is not depressed. For cam timing this needs to happen: - Make sure the #1 cylinder is at TDC...place a small diameter wooden dowel or chopstick in the spark plug hole. When it gets to max height turning...

Unplug the TPS and crank...post what happens.

Post it here Rick...for me, I don't do a lot of pics. Sorry.

Concerning the TPS: Code 41 = VTA Code 51 = IDL Two separate functions of the TPS. Read this: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46793 (search actually works on SM ;)) And this: http://www.mkiiitech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=882

It's simple...it won't work. For the above reason. I seem to remember a hot wire MAF being used like this, but you need a MAF Translator. What I can't fugure out is why you would want to do it.

You're wrong.

Ummmm...no. Might want to search the articles forum next time: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62343