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i took off the intake manifold and sanded the grounding point to bare metal did the same to the ground eyelets i sanded them down to fresh metal and then gave it a direct ground to the battery, didnt make a difference i still get code 11... do you think i have a bad ecu maybe?

in modern oils we use a fluid that solidifies during certain pressures causing a much stronger transfer of energy.

my JDM 7m was a successful one, besides me having to replace the head gasket and all of the block plugs and the metal heater hose that wraps around the block because EVERYTHING RUSTED from some jackass putting tap water in the engine and then storing it for 15+ years. it did have low mileage...

thank you grim you always help me out the quickest.

:1zhelp: when i turn the key the car will try to start it spudders and spits and will not sustain anything, when i put a jumper in the diagnostics block the car will finally respond to my throttle and will at least rev like normal but once i release the pedal it just will not idle and it kicks...

once i unplug the fuel pump jumper the car wont rev it just spudders really bad and dies, i redid the grounds to the ecu and i still get the code. do you think the code would make my car really act this badly?

the car sputters badly and doesnt respond to the throttle, then as soon as i jumper the fuel pump in the diagnostic block the car picks up and responds to throttle but still wont idle.. hmm i will check those grounds on the intake manifold

my car just cant start for some reason, i crank and it starts but it sputters badly and then dies, i pulled a code 11, it means something with the ecu? now what? http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTips/engine_error_codes.aspx

i am having the same exact issue, how do i jump the diagnostic block to get the fuel pump going? never mind i found it http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=FI&P=70

awesome, i guess ill just do it proper and send it to dr injector in fedway

Now that i have the head off the car. What would your recommended way to clean fuel injectors be? A soaking bath in gasoline?

k check your plug to the MAF sensor, could be a bad wire along there because it does start, but like an unplugged maf it runs for 2 seconds and shuts off, as far as i know there isnt a cps on an NA, so start from there

yeh... its been in there since ive owned the car.. 2.5 years.. and its looked bad inside it even then... so i guess i deserve it...oh well TIME TO UPGRADE!!! whats your recommended radiator and cooling fan setup? cuz i wanna go big and race status since i drive my car like an asshole XD!!

yeah. the seals were all metal reinforced. it looked better than the stock design.

i bought the engine jdm and i had the surface reground at a popular machinist. used a shucks headgasket and arp bolts.. i think my radiator went bad and chained the head gasket with it.,

:thefinger ::bhg::you have to sit and read another one again!!!:: wah :: i was driving on the highway no pop no nothing, just suddenly overheat and smoke out the back::flame::!! dammit i thought i permafixed this with my ARP bolts!!! here we go again!!! XD very white and gunky under the oil...

with that much power i wouldn't trust my reflexes on gears either...

hmm as the rig something up master heres an idea. jb weld some painted sheet metal under the hole and then use bondo to fill in the rest of the gap. sand the piss out of it and then paint.

as i can see the pressupre plate that was newer looked only a bit bigger on certain edges but most of all it looked like it was the same diameter.. as long as the dowel pins fir and the throwout bearing fits you should be fine.. only a slight difference doesnt mean total incompatability.

they wont oxidize ive had mine like stripped for a year and a half with no effect. yes if you put paint stripper on the wheels they will shine up very easy with no extra work needed.. just make sure you put alot of stripper on there and blast everything away with a high pressure hose.