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NA with 250rwhp should be doable without NOS, but it wiil cost. I had around $3500 in mine at 215rwhp, now another $800+/- for Maft-Pro, SD setup, haven't dyno again yet, hoping for another 20-30hp.

I don't worry about the "T" anyway.:sarcasm: Sound's good, wouldn't mind "fondleing" some new parts myself:biglaugh: Any pics yet?

Don't think it would do anything for power. I'd only replace it if your old one is bad and you are going to add a lot more mod's.

Is this a repost? I think a couple of days ago you asked the same questions?

It seems that if the drive gear was off it would have a hard time turning without causing some damage? I see alot of questions asked about these cams, but few responses? Maybe alot of them are still sitting in their boxes. Am I missing something? This thread was moved from the General...

O.K. I thought I had read that somewere, just that he didn't say he had done that.

No CPS on a NA. Check your timing gears at marks, #1 at TDC, rotor pointing at # 1 on the distributor, and the crank mark at "o". Sounds like something is still out. Make sure you adjust the timing belt right according to the TSRM.

Not sure if the length is the same. another thing to consider is the dia of the journal, wrist pin.

Not too much play front to back, a little more side to side for alinement, I always mark my bolts before I take the bearing off so I can locate it in the same place. But like I said you should have a couple of spacers that go inbetween the support and frame approximatly 1/2" thick and the bolts...

I guess they have different rods. I have eagles and they are a "H" beam type with ARP studs. They came with my stroker kit and they are SB Chevy's, don't know if that makes a difference. I couldn't say you can get the stock size in the "H" beams. They looked pretty stout to me, and they are...

Looks good. Now what? New exhaust?

Thanks for the correction Junkie. We are not used to saying "6" here:biglaugh: I knew it was a GE though;) Waiting to see some results/news about the 6mge.:naughty:

That dosen't look my throttle setup. Can you get some better pics? What year is the car? If the motor was changed, they may not have switched the old linkage and used the one that came with the new motor.

Yeah it's not normal for water to be in there. Probably because it's in #5&6, the motor tilts back a little. Are you sure it's water and not coolant? Whatever it is you need to find out how it's getting there.

The DS isn't adjustable that I know of, the center bearing has two washers that space it down from the frame. If you don't have them then you need to get some. They help line up the DS, up and down, Also your unis should all be in line with each other to be in sync.

Stock is 295 @ .50 lift and 204 @ .50 dur. I have regrounds 322 and 218 @ 50. Don't have the figures on the BC's to compare. Little lope at idle, couldn't say how much added due to all the other mods I did at the same time. Mild tuning means you probably would have to add a piggyback like Apexi...

That's what they are trying to get set up first. Check the previous posts.

Any codes? Need more info than that to help. Way to many things that would cause it not to start. If you put your ear to the filler tube you can usally hear the FP running when you turn the key on.

Thanks Doc.

Sometimes I have to put it in 1st and just let the clutch half way, just enought to bump the car a little forward, then it will go into reverse. Only happens maybe 5-10% of the time.