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Or at least 50/50, but you have to find out were the coolant is going. If it has rust in the system you might be able to get away with flushing the coolong system with a radiator flush, but it sounds like it has been overlooked for a while and straight water was added instead of coolant. I...

Yeah like I said pretty hard for that to back itself off unless it was very loose. Take it back.

I thought you posted that somewere and I was thinking about you when I read this thread. IJ: Yeah I understood about the cams gears being off and having to change the dis. gear, I guess what I was getting at was to correct the cam gear being off the the "hash marks" would be off still from...

Looks to be in very good shape. How many miles? I don't think you'll get it much below $1500.00-$1800.00 Maybe if you talk up the BHG and all other things that would have to be replaced, possibly a complete rebuild if the coolant got to the bearings. In fact you probably should figure doing a...

Burp it see what it does. If you let the coolant get low it will suck in some air into the system.

What do you mean the coolant is red? Was there rust on the coolant sensor? The coolant has to be going somewhere if you are loosing it. If it isn't leaking then it's burning or getting into the oil. Notice any in the oil, or white smoke out the tailpipe?

As always IJ you are a wealth of info. So basically all cams should be degreed to ckeck everything as far as lining up? Is the Helical moveable on the end of the distributor? How is Amichie going to correct? If the cams gears have to be moved and don't line up with the "hash marks" on the...

I was checking the BC website and the Stage 2 are suppose to be "plug and play"? Should you have to degree them in?

It looks like the BC's are close to the hard weld regrinds I have, 322 and 218. I don't have Adj. cam gears though, and was told that they wouldn't have to be degreed in. Was I misled? I just lined up the cam gears and it started right up. I agree with IJ as far as the "punchy midrange". They...

Does the alternator spin freely?Unusal for the pulley to come off by it's self. The clutch fan is what you are talking about? Attached to the fan and WP. If it wobbles a lot then it's time for a new one. Maybe even a water pump. Check to see if it is the clutch fan or the WP.

Maybe you can post in the piggyback section, Doc J knows everything about these.

If it is the EGR cooler gasket, it will be a pain with the motor in place. I removed my EGR valve and related compoments but have left the cooler in place. I don't know if that is the right thing to do? To remove the EGR valve you have to have some block off plates.

Is there anything you haven't made?:biglaugh: Except "baby buggy rubber bumpers" Amichie: Interested to see if you can get it to run well enough without fuel control and just timing. Please keep us posted.

Mine is black with tan leather, I like it. The tan as opposed to the darker shades dosen't get as hot in the summer.

Noise the pump makes or the car?

I had a Pacesetter cat back exhaust with header and I liked it. Added some power and torque. Wow!! 9 pages to change valve cover gaskets, must be a record or something. lol

The ticking could just be the valve lash needs adjusted, or if the oil changes had been negelicted sticking lifters. Does the ticking sound single or mutiple? You could pull one plug wire off one at a time to narrow down the problem cylinder. Have you checked around the bottom of the...

I take it you have adj. cam gears? Do you have any type of AFR adjustment? Just curious if you can get it running well enought without some sort of piggyback(i.e. Apexi, etc.) When I installed my cams it was with other mods, bored, stroked, etc., and I had to install a Apexi II to get it to run...

My dipstick is a lot shorter and just has a loop on the end of it. Must be the JDM one.