There's a cutaway on the back of the housing I just put a small punch in there and sitting in a chair tap the seal out with a hammer.
A thin screwdriver will work but be careful it doesn't pierce the seal and your leg ;)
Yes it's a really simple 5 second test using a scleroscope.
Sadly it's often overlooked then people wonder why they have another BHG a few weeks/months later..
I tested 5 heads before giving up and buying a new casting from Toyota....
It was going to cost me more to have one stripped reheat treated and reassembled as ALL of the steel parts had to be removed.
One of mine was so bad I ended up doing this to find out where the water was before...
Bigger the Turbo the more damage you can do :)
Car looks the part even if it's not a bazillion hp at the moment!
(Certain angles highlight just how right the designers got it with the a70's)
Balancer won't go on because it has a smaller hole to match the crank.
Timing pully might be deformed from trying to remove it.
Both the Balancer and the Pully are meant to be a firm slip fit.
(dropped in a pot of boiling water for a few minutes they should slide on easily by hand)
Looks like it's had a balancer come undone at some stage in it's life and been repaired as per my earlier post.
"Milled" is incorrect it's either "Turned" "Ground" or "Linished" ;)
The snout is the same diameter from nose to the front Main journal register.
(from the front to where the Timing pully sits)
If yours has a step the only thing I can think of is it's been damaged and repaired and the Balancer sleeved to fit.
Even is best as long as it's not all soft!
The heads are heat treated when new but over time they tend to soften on the exhaust side and if overheated at all can end up full soft and useless.
Bad idea spending $ on a soft head as it will mean trouble later on.
A lot of the time exhaust studs stip is from the head being annealed on the hot side, fitting larger studs is a temp fix in this case.
Personally I'd go for the helicoils.
I "believe" the failure was caused by the Cam settings that had been adjusted for the 1jz on the dyno raising the dynamic compression after squeezing the extra cylinder volume into the smaller 1j CC's.
As for using a thicker HG to adjust comp ratio's while it's NOT ideal it works fine I did...
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