Grinding and polishing the beams before shotpeening is an accepted practice and has been for many years.
Again Rennat please don't post on things you don't know about.
^ What he said ;)
I've worked on some really expensive cars over the years and I couldn't imagine trying to explain why the customers car was at the paint shop when it came in for brakes.
I'm NOT saying this is how you should do it only how I do it ;)
I figure it's all gravity related...
Dunno if the service is available there but in the Past I've had Masters resleeved with a Stainless press fit sleeve, add a rebuild kit and you have a master that will outlast the life of the car.
The last one I bought for the Supra was ex Japan and is cast iron but most I've seen are...
Never used it never even looked at it so had NFI, but really if it's free either use it as is or STFU quit ya whinging....
Do you really think they care 1 bit if you leave?
It's a bit like when someone here makes a dramatic exit, WE DON'T CARE! :kickinthenuts:
just a bunch of 1's and...
^ It's NOT actually the "last one" ;)
If they get another order they'll remake the harness but it takes 6 weeks instead of 3. (I've had them do this for other parts)
I don't bother with the preoil thing as I have faith in the Oil film remaining in place long enough to make the 2>3 rotations it takes for the Oil pump to catch up (non drainback valves in filters are amazing things).
I think the whole "dry start" thing is another throwback to the old days.
So you proved it wasn't safe to be used on the road ;)
As I said better to find out in a static test where the worst that happens is it costs you some fluid and a master than out in the real world where it has the potential to cost your life.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.