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don't

They won't "break" but they DO move around a lot ;) I was seeing some seriously funky Main bearing wear patterns a couple of years back when I experimented with sustained high RPM runs.

baaaaah ;)

What details do you need?

It's NOT so much that my "knowledge" is "great" it's that I try NOT to post if I haven't had personal experience with the issue at hand and If I do post something I have a very good reason why based on fact and not something I pulled out of my ass ;)

Remind me in the new year and I'll see what I can get.

I use a dual flex plate and arp bolts and haven't had an issue 6 or 7M cranks to sustained 8300 George.

99% of the time it's just that Mark and if it hasn't been corrected the new one is doomed :( (I paid $800 AUD for my PWR so wasn't taking any chances)

"You pay peanuts you get Monkeys"

Paint in this case = bodywork ;) The problem is bad grounds and if they painted under the ground terminals that is a bad ground :) I spent a week going through my car after a chat with a rad shop owner here and him showing me a 2 week old Rad that looked like a garden sprinkler! The...

A good place to start "fixing" it is if the car has had any body work done check the grounds in that area.

Welcome to SM

Really expensive wheel chocks ;) Going to be interesting when these hit the real world.

A lot of shops employ trained apes to do what they see as menial work. "any idiot can install stem seals"....... And as you've just found NO any idiot can't ;)

They didn't use the valve tip installation Condom ;)

The way Dyno's read if you can begin with more power it'll show as a huge jump in the top end, I found this when I went with the lightened crank it allowed the engine to ramp into the load zone of the dyno sooner.

Look for voltage and it needs to be an anologue multi meter NOT a Digi.

^ Smarter than the average Bear <golf clap>

::dead horse::

"Stray Current" ;)